Scorchio

[RoboBrewBot5000]

Hello All, it seems after maybe 10-11 batches on my Klarstein mash/boil kettle, I have some across a problem.

I brewed an IPA on Sunday which tasted like Ash. The element at the bottom had a dark and heavily burnt on residue. I had to chuck the beer.

I cleaned the element using PBW (3 lots) and a steel scouring pad. Got almost all of the residue off minus a few very tiny specs. Good I thought.

As I had a big magnet dry hop ready to go for the first batch, I rebrewed this evening so I could reset the dry hop in the new brew.

Tonight I took care to stir during the ramp up to boil. Once on boil, I put some hops in a spider and my 0 minute addition in a bag to help utilisation and reduce hop particulates in the beer.

I left the unit set to 110 and selected the 1600w setting only which maintained a strong boil. I boiled for 75 mins total.

I had wanted to reduce the target temp from 110 to 100 but it seemed to keep cycling off so I left it on the 110. The read out temp during this time was 100.

I have cleaned off what burnt residue I can and just put some PBW in to soak overnight.

Do folks think this could be resolved by selecting the 100 setting after I've reached the boil so as to not boil too rigorously, or is there a possibility I may have damaged the stainless steel element using the steel scourer. I read earlier this could be bad. Does anyone have any similar experiences?

I should add, I don't think the crush on the grain was particularly fine, although for 15L I had about 3.8kg of grain.

I am concerned I may have caused a problem that will reoccur and may need to shell out for a new kettle.

Any thoughts/guidance greatly appreciated!

 

[hoppyscotty]

If you're 10 - 11 brews in and this is the first time you've hit this issue, what has changed? Are you brewing a different recipe to what you've brewed before? were all your previous brews fine with no scorching?

I guess in my mind maybe you're using a new ingredient that has a tendency to catch or maybe something has gone wrong with your kit causing the element to run hotter? just seems odd that your initial brews seem to have been fine but now you're hitting an issue.

Another option is to run your pump through the boil with a whirlpool arm to you keep the wort moving across the elements? I know running the pump through the boil isn't ideal and risks clogging but might be an get around.

 

[Caramel Ox]

I think the OP has the fullhorn kettle which doesn’t have a pump - from memory mine tends to scorch a bit but not enough to alter flavour. I haven’t boiled in it many times though. If you are biab mashing in the kettle then boiling I suggest trying it with a break in between for cleaning. Drain the mash to a bucket, clean up then add back to boil?

 

[Cwrw666]

With my Biab boiler I always get some scorching on the kettle bottom though I've never had it affect flavour. It's always much worse in dark beers. I think it's fine particles from the mash settling on the bottom. Perhaps the OPs problem is a finer grind in his ingredients suddenly causing the issue

 

[pilgrimhudd]

I get scorching most of the time, never effects the flavour though, using Rye seems to make it worse.

 

[Rodcx500z]

I used a fullhorn for 2 years it did scorch sometimes but not to the point i had to chuck a brew, i still have it along with a brewzilla

 

[RoboBrewBot5000]

If you're 10 - 11 brews in and this is the first time you've hit this issue, what has changed? Are you brewing a different recipe to what you've brewed before? were all your previous brews fine with no scorching?

I guess in my mind maybe you're using a new ingredient that has a tendency to catch or maybe something has gone wrong with your kit causing the element to run hotter? just seems odd that your initial brews seem to have been fine but now you're hitting an issue.

Another option is to run your pump through the boil with a whirlpool arm to you keep the wort moving across the elements? I know running the pump through the boil isn't ideal and risks clogging but might be an get around.

Thanks, I am using a little crystal malt which I've not really used before but ont think this would cause a problem. I'm sure I'll get to the bottom of it.

 

[RoboBrewBot5000]

If you're 10 - 11 brews in and this is the first time you've hit this issue, what has changed? Are you brewing a different recipe to what you've brewed before? were all your previous brews fine with no scorching?

I guess in my mind maybe you're using a new ingredient that has a tendency to catch or maybe something has gone wrong with your kit causing the element to run hotter? just seems odd that your initial brews seem to have been fine but now you're hitting an issue.

Another option is to run your pump through the boil with a whirlpool arm to you keep the wort moving across the elements? I know running the pump through the boil isn't ideal and risks clogging but might be an get around.

Thanks, I am using a little crystal malt which I've not really used before but ont think this would cause a problem. I'm sure I'll get to the

I think the OP has the fullhorn kettle which doesn’t have a pump - from memory mine tends to scorch a bit but not enough to alter flavour. I haven’t boiled in it many times though. If you are biab mashing in the kettle then boiling I suggest trying it with a break in between for cleaning. Drain the mash to a bucket, clean up then add back to boil?

I do indeed have a fullhorn.

I like the idea of draining the wort after the mash to see if there's an issue there. I'll do that next time I brew.

I have found that the setting of 1600w at 100 degrees isn't really sufficient, however the setting it at 110 seems to be far too much. If this is my problem perhaps I'll try setting it at 100 with both switches on to take me up to the full 2500w.

I think I'm going to have to experiment a bit to find our what's going wrong.

 

[Caramel Ox]

I would expect that set to 100 it would cycle on/off constantly which is not what a rolling boil is supposed to be but who knows if it will really matter. Adding insulation to the sides and partially covering the top could get you to a position where you can use the 900w element only.

 

[Rodcx500z]

If i remember rightly i used to set mine at 103c and just used the 1600w setting, i agree as above at 100c it will cycle on and off, use the full 2500w to get to a rolling boil then switch off the 900w

 

[RoboBrewBot5000]

Update: I have used a vinegar and bicarb paste on the bottom of the element AND also some kettle descale (we have hard water) and these seem to almost have returned the element to shiny factory new.

I'm thinking maybe some scale had built up which was causing some of the fine mash particulate to catch and start scorching. The last two brews were half batches with a higher than normal grain bills (3.8kg into 15L mash liqour) so there may have been a higher than normal proportion of fine particulates.

Per advice here I am planning to rebrew on Monday, drain off the wort post mash to check the element and clean the element if necessary before boiling. I'll do a simple recipe to limit grain and hop loss if it still burns. I'm thinking a centennial smash.

I'm hopefull this will turn out OK and I can return to winning ways - I've got a competition to brew for in May!

 

[RoboBrewBot5000]

Hey all, just to close out this thread, I thought I'd post an update. I seem to have solved my problem, which was I think probably caused y a number of factors. Note, this is for a BIAB set up using the Klarstein Fullhorn.

I now put the false bottom in pre mash.

When mashing is done, I then bring the liquid up to a boil using both elements. (900w + 1600w). During the ramp up I'm periodically stirring vigorously.

When the boil is reached I then switch off the 900w and maintain a vigorous boil for the 60 ish minutes.

For hopping I've started putting my hop additions in bags which I tie up and throw in as per the schedule. I think this has the dual benefit of retaining hop particulate well and allows for fairly decent hop utilisation.

I still have a brown residue on the bade of the kettle, however this is not as dark and not anywhere near as burnt on as it was when I started getting the problem (hence my original post).

After transferring the wort to the FV, I then get straight in and clean the kettle and the residue that is there seems to come off easily.

I'm pretty confident that taking these steps has resolved the issue. Thank you to all who have weighed in on here with advice and comments. Hopefully this thread will help others who may experience similar issues I the future.

Keep brewing!

 

[Agentgonzo]

The grainfather instructional videos tell you to use your mash paddle to try to scrape some of the sediment off the element when you start heating for the boil. This should help move any particulates that are sat on the element start moving with the wort rather than scorching and sticking in place

 

[RoboBrewBot5000]

Good advice but I'd then have to remove the false bottom which would be a problem unless I drain off the wort first. Hopefully I've addressed the problem sufficiently in any case.

 

[Galena]

I have a Fullhorn and have always had a bit of scorching, I always had the false bottom in as well and my power use sounds like yours, I used 900w after initial mash heat and dough in, then 1600+900 to get to the boil and then just 1600w for a rolling boil. The scorching is small but fairly dark and doesn't want to come off even after using VWP and scraping. It doen't seem to affect flavour.

I have just downgraded it to a HLT now as I have just completed my home build kettle.

Hopefully yours will be trouble free now.