The wife went down town today & came back with the above kit. It was only £10 so thinking she was doing me a favour bought it instead of the more well known kits. Anyway, i`ve got it now so what do you lot reckon i could do with it to improve it?
Silver seal scottish export?
- Thread starter hong
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Brew to 20 pints only, no sugar, use a good yeast, Nottingham - done this with a Geordie Scottish Export - it's turned out great!
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Was asking about this on another thread , that is ,brewing one can kits short . Do you not find that the amount of hop flavouring meant for 25L comes out overpowering ? I was asked by a novice and couldnt give a satisfactory answer 
The bitterness has increased but in a pleasant way, in any case I like it that way. And is probably offset by the beer being more full-bodied. Just my personal impression. Every time I open a bottle it's improved again.
Klaus i have got the Geordie scottish export kit. Right, i am intrgued by your 20 pint method so am gonna try it. My only snag is, you said to use a different yeast. Is the Geordie kit yeast not very good? Just, i dont know when i can get to my lhbs again soon.
I can't comment on the Geordie yeast as I have had no previous experience with that one.
Main reason why I used the Nottingham was that I had a couple of sachets (11g each) which were just a few months out of date and having read the datasheet seemed quite suitable for my temperature situation, which is "variable" between 16 to 20C.
I used one sachet and the fermentation was quite vigorous for about five days, which is understandable with the amount of fermentables involved.
I see no reason for not using the Geordie yeast - I have kept that one and will probably use it for when I split a two can kit.
Somehow I don't think you can go wrong as long as you can reach an FG in the region of 1.005 to 1.010 - it's worth keeping it in the FV for at least a fortnight.
Main reason why I used the Nottingham was that I had a couple of sachets (11g each) which were just a few months out of date and having read the datasheet seemed quite suitable for my temperature situation, which is "variable" between 16 to 20C.
I used one sachet and the fermentation was quite vigorous for about five days, which is understandable with the amount of fermentables involved.
I see no reason for not using the Geordie yeast - I have kept that one and will probably use it for when I split a two can kit.
Somehow I don't think you can go wrong as long as you can reach an FG in the region of 1.005 to 1.010 - it's worth keeping it in the FV for at least a fortnight.
hong said:
Yes! Simple isn't it?
Klaus, i set my 2 gallon export away last night & did exactly what you said. If this turns out nice it will be the way forward for me. So simple doing it this way. Also, as i dont have much space, so 2 gallons at a time could even please the wife too!
Apart from the export have you done any other kits this way?
Apart from the export have you done any other kits this way?
hong said:
The Geordie was the first one I did this way - before then always split the two can kits.
I am sure this will turn out good, just give it time (in bottle), at least a month, then every bottle will be better than the last.
Klaus, my 2 gallon export is almost into its 9th day now. I know you said to leave it at least for 2 weeks which i will. Thing is, when it comes to bottling i usually batch prime out of easyness. How much sugar would you recommend for a 2 gallon brew? I could always prime bottles though if its easier.
I have never batch primed for bottling, only bottle prime with 1/2 tsp of white sugar. For my Coopers Euro Lage in the keg I put in 100g of sugar. Maybe there is a rule of thumb for bottling? Perhaps 50g for 2 gallon, ca. 10 litres?
Cheers Klaus, reason i ask is because i have a mixture of sdifferent sized bottles. Got some 1 litre PET, some 2 litre PET, Newcastle brown ale bottles, Magners bottles etc. so i thought it would be easier to batch prime the whole lot when racking into the clean FV.klaus said:
Klaus, just bottled up my 2 gallon Export. I noticed that there were quite a few little floaters in most of the bottles. Will these drop to the bottom during conditioning & form the sediment? Must admit, even though its very young it does look quite nice!
Mine was almost clear at bottling time without any noticeable bits. Maybe the sediment got disturbed but I would expect to beer to clear rapidly. Follow the usual procedure, i.e. a few days in the warmth and then store away. I personally move my bottles straight to my understair storage which is quite cool, 16-18C but I leave the beer to mature for at least a month. Hope it turns out good.
Yeah will do, like i said it looks nice but when it came to racking into the clean FV, there were loads of bits floating round the top. Hopefully they will just fall into the bottom of the bottles and settle firmly.klaus said:
