Youngs American IPA

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My process is (assuming a dry hop)
- make sure the primary has all but finished (by taking SG readings)
- rack off to a second FV to get it off the yeast to help clearing (some do this, some don't, I do)
- dry hop four days in the warm two days in the cool (I can't do latter in summer :-?)
- bottle or into PB direct; I don't bother with bottling buckets
I know I can go straight into PB/bottles at the end of the dry hop because the primary was finished/all but finished six days before
And yes the sock goes over the immersed end of the siphon tube -but if you use one make sure it is sanitised before use. I do this by boiling it in water for 5-10mins.,

Thanks again mate, I'm starting to get an idea on how this all works 😀
So do you add priming sugar to each of your bottles then keep warm for a couple of weeks?
I thought the sock would go on the tap end so it caught any hops but I guess it goes on the immersed end to avoid clogging.
 
So do you add priming sugar to each of your bottles then keep warm for a couple of weeks?
I thought the sock would go on the tap end so it caught any hops but I guess it goes on the immersed end to avoid clogging.
Yes to priming sugar direct to bottles. Others do bottling buckets. Plenty on this forum about how to prime into bottles and the sugar rates to use by teaspoon measure. Carbonation can take between one to two weeks, depends on temperature, yeast quantity, and how much sugar yeast has to chew.
Sock goes over immersed end of siphon. I don't use tap on other end .. to much faff, I just put up with a bit of mess.
Others have taps at bottom of their FVs. Not sure how they filter out hops,
 
Yes to priming sugar direct to bottles. Others do bottling buckets. Plenty on this forum about how to prime into bottles and the sugar rates to use by teaspoon measure. Carbonation can take between one to two weeks, depends on temperature, yeast quantity, and how much sugar yeast has to chew.
Sock goes over immersed end of siphon. I don't use tap on other end .. to much faff, I just put up with a bit of mess.
Others have taps at bottom of their FVs. Not sure how they filter out hops,

Thanks again mate. I've just looked through the "How to"s and calculators and cant find any info or recommendations on adding the sugar to bottles.

Also I'm thinking of putting a bottler on the end of the syphon which I assume is possible?

Gaz
 
Evening chaps - first post and first try at homebrew - started this kit 14 days ago - still bubbling away so took reading today and its at 1.016 . Hoping that it will be down to 1.010 within a few days so I can add the hops(I'm adding them in a muslin bag) - I have a second FV - it there any advantage to syphoning into the second FV before adding the hops over adding them to the existing FV and leaving there for the required time?
 
Thanks again mate. I've just looked through the "How to"s and calculators and cant find any info or recommendations on adding the sugar to bottles.

Also I'm thinking of putting a bottler on the end of the syphon which I assume is possible?

Gaz
If you are not batch priming you simply add the correct amount of sugar to each bottle using a teaspoon. I use a funnel to get the sugar into the bottles so that none is spilt and it gets straight in the beer not all round the neck of the bottle
The 'correct amount of sugar' is that which gives you the right level of carbonation for your beer. Your Youngs kit (if I remember correctly) has 130g for 23 litres so that corresponds to adding sugar at the rate of about 2.75g per 500ml bottle, or, using one of my tsp measure at 4.5g, just slightly over one half tsp. More on priming here
http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showpost.php?p=624921

I don't use a bottler so can't help there.
 
I filled two minikegs of this last night (individually primed) then filled and capped nine bottles before realising i hadn't primed what was left in the FV.
I really dont like bottling, must get more minikegs.
 
Update :-)
I added my hops on Friday and have kept it all nice and warm since so I've now turned off the heat and will leave it another couple of days and will bottle on Thursday.
I've just taken a final reading and its still the same as last Thurs (1.008) so I'm happy that fermentation is complete.
A couple of things I did notice though is that it has lots of bits floating about in it and on the top, but i'm guessing this is normal?
Also,it smells quite potent/strong!? Is this normal or will this ease off a little whilst bottling etc? I actually brewed 1 litre short due to fear of over spilling krausen if this makes a difference. I currently get the alcohol abv at 7.35% which is absolutely fine by me as long as it doesn't ruin the taste.

Cheers
Gaz
 
Bottling day tomorrow :-)
Its been a couple of days since I turned off the heat so hopefully it may have settled a little.
I'm guessing that when I insert the syphon tube, I have to do so carefully and initially submerge it halfway in the fv to try and avoid as many bits as poss? I will have a muslin bay over to help filter.
Also, I'm hoping to use a bottler on the end of my syphon tube (I've got to pick these up tomorrow) to try and avoid any spillages.
Or is the bottling process a messy affair anyway and should I do so over a bowl/bucket?
Any tips or advice welcome.
After tomorrows bottling, I'll have pretty much done a full brew so should leave you guys in peace :-)
After starting off with zero experience or knowledge, I'm grateful for everybodys help throughout.
Cheers chaps
Gaz
 
I have a spare fv with a tap on with a bottling wand which I use for bulk priming and bottling. I syphon into it over the correct amount of pre dissolved sugar then place it over the open dishwasher for bottling. Dead easy no fuss no mess. ...

Cheers

Clint
 
I have a spare fv with a tap on with a bottling wand which I use for bulk priming and bottling. I syphon into it over the correct amount of pre dissolved sugar then place it over the open dishwasher for bottling. Dead easy no fuss no mess. ...

Cheers

Clint

Cheers Clint,
I think that's what I'll do next time. So I guess when you syphon into the second fv, you use a muslin bag to filter therefore deeming it unnecessary to filter when bottling?
Will I be ok moving my fv from one room to another tomorrow before I bottle or am I best not risking disturbing it?

Thanks
Gaz
 
Ah right.....I usually dry hop in a nylon filter bag so I don't get bothered with bits....I think if you don't people either cold crash so the bits sink or put a filter sock /bag over the end of the syphon.

Cheers

Clint
 
Quick (and potentially dumb) question:-
Does the priming sugar add anything other than carbonation to the beer?
The reason I ask is after adding what I thought was the right amount to each bottle, I'm still left with about a 5th of the bag left? Not sure if its worth adding a bit more to each bottle?
I actually short brewed by a litre.
So I have 22 litres ready to bottle in the following:-
26x 500ml
16x 568ml
 
I think the bag would be for the 23l bulk primed...I suppose you could try to work it out but you have a short batch and different size bottles. I don't suppose you'll be far away..the sugar also creates a very tiny amount of extra alcohol. .point something..

Cheers

Clint
 
I have a spare fv with a tap on with a bottling wand which I use for bulk priming and bottling. I syphon into it over the correct amount of pre dissolved sugar then place it over the open dishwasher for bottling. Dead easy no fuss no mess. ...

Cheers

Clint

exactly my method too Clint, the first draw from the bottle wand is usually into a glass that I sup as I go along !
I bottled this very kit a few weeks ago and I've had a couple of bottles this week to see where it's at and it's coming good, a tasty drop :thumb:
 
Hi all

2nd brew ever here, so I am literally following it to the letter still. I think I know what to do based on instructions and forum/internet searching, however currently it is the fear of messing it up rather than it not being wonderful that haunts me!!!

13 days in fermenter so far at about 18 degrees which I know is a touch low. Initial reading, 1.054, last night I opened it up & was greeted by the attached photo – at first I thought **** it, it is off – but I googled IPA fermenter and there were some similar pictures, and the sample tasted good so hopefully all OK. 1.015 is my reading, so I plan on waiting a little longer before I dry hop (it says 2/3 days before you bottle) and see if I can get it beneath 1.100 before I bottle – I think lower temp means longer ferment?

I actually have a load of questions, but am trying to search out the answers as it seems questions get asked a lot. But if it is OK, may I ask

1) As I say, I plan to wait until around 1.100, dry hop & then a few days later bottle
2) Dry Hopping in a sterilised Muslin bag, if it means less sediment, then why wouldn’t you? Is there a better flavour from not doing so
3) Plan to Batch prime in a barrel, then decant off around 20 bottles and then leave rest in barrel (I am short of bottles) if I then added some Co2 from the gas cylinder, is this wise?
4) Leave for 2 weeks in 18 degree front room and then to garage which is getting nice & chilly

Basically, that is it – I think that is the way forward, but if there is any other suggestions – I would greatly appreciate it

Loving this hobby already by the way & this forum is very helpful indeed (a lot of info!!) – Did a Woodforde’s Wherry first and now 4 weeks of being bottled, they are turning out nice & clear, a wonderful head & very nice – should be great for Christmas if I can hold off. Sediment does not seem solid in any way mind – I read this happens over time (plus if you add finings) but sure I will get a feel for all this in time. Festival NZ Pilsner next I think & then I may get a bit more kit (Christmas!) and start following some recipes

Thank you!

IPAFerment.JPG
 
Hi all

2nd brew ever here, so I am literally following it to the letter still.I think I know what to do based on instructions and forum/internet searching, however currently it is the fear of messing it up rather than it not being wonderful that haunts me!!!

13 days in fermenter so far at about 18 degrees which I know is a touch low. Initial reading, 1.054, last night I opened it up & was greeted by the attached photo �" at first I thought **** it, it is off �" but I googled IPA fermenter and there were some similar pictures, and the sample tasted good so hopefully all OK.1.015 is my reading, so I plan on waiting a little longer before I dry hop (it says 2/3 days before you bottle) and see if I can get it beneath 1.100 before I bottle �" I think lower temp means longer ferment?

I actually have a load of questions, but am trying to search out the answers as it seems questions get asked a lot. But if it is OK, may I ask

1) As I say, I plan to wait until around 1.100, dry hop & then a few days later bottle
2) Dry Hopping in a sterilised Muslin bag, if it means less sediment, then why wouldn’t you?Is there a better flavour from not doing so
3) Plan to Batch prime in a barrel, then decant off around 20 bottles and then leave rest in barrel (I am short of bottles)if I then added some Co2 from the gas cylinder, is this wise?
4) Leave for 2 weeks in 18 degree front room and then to garage which is getting nice & chilly

Basically, that is it �" I think that is the way forward, but if there is any other suggestions �" I would greatly appreciate it

Loving this hobby already by the way & this forum is very helpful indeed (a lot of info!!) �" Did a Woodforde’s Wherry first and now 4 weeks of being bottled, they are turning out nice & clear, a wonderful head & very nice �" should be great for Christmas if I can hold off. Sediment does not seem solid in any way mind �" I read this happens over time (plus if you add finings) but sure I will get a feel for all this in time.Festival NZ Pilsner next I think & then I may get a bit more kit (Christmas!) and start following some recipes

Thank you!

Rich
Your brew looks fine.
If you are brewing at 18*C and the current SG is only 1.015 my guess is you have about 5-7 days to go
So keep the lid on for at least another 5 days and then do another reading.
When your SG reaches 1.010 or preferably lower say 1.009 or even 1.008 you can dry hop.
To keep hop bits out of your brew use a sanitised muslin or nylon bag. (boiling to sanitise is OK). If you don't use a bag you will need a filter on the end of your siphon or similar.
I would keep the hops in for about 4/5 days to get the best out of them.
Doing your 3 & 4 is OK. You might need longer to carb up at 18*C.
 
Bottling done and went well :-)
Got 37 bottles in total.
However, I may have made a mistake.
Basically my last 8 bottles were 7 brown and 1 clear. I had tilted my fv slightly to try and reduce waste and syphoned off the 7 brown ones but when I got to the last clear bottle (where i can actually see the beer)I noticed it was a dark, creamy and milky.
The previous bottles were just put with the rest and I have no way of identifying.
Will they still be ok do you think?

Things I've learned for next time:-

1)Definitely syphon into a second fv before bottling and batch prime to eliminate any guess work with sugar.

And...

2)Add hops in a muslin bag to reduce sediment as my muslin bag filter on my syphon kept getting blocked.

Can't wait to taste the final product. I was drinking a bottle of Marstons Old Empire whilst bottling and had a sneaky taste of my YAIPA and I must admit mine was a lot tastier :-)

Thanks again to everyone for your help, I've enjoyed it from start to finish and already researching what to put on next :-)

Gaz
 
Afternoon all - I added hops yesterday and am hoping to bottle on Sunday - one thing that's bothering me - I've already cleaned out my bottles with bottle brush (they are old bottles) and put them in dishwasher for a cycle - on Sunday I intend to soak them in a solution of VWP steriliser - can they then be rinsed with cold tap water - I'm sure I have read somewhere this is a no no - I don't want to fail at the final hurdle !
 

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