Looking for a replacement for my electrim boiler. For some reason tonight mid boil it cuts out and refuses to turn back on. Power is going to the controller and the orange and green lights come on but it doesn't turn on the element for some reaosn. Anywho, I'm bored of it now anyway as was only a cheap option (ebay) whilst I tried my hand at AG and now I'm hooked so looking for something a little more substantial that'll last me a bit longer. I like the stainless steel all-in-one-ers and recently saw a post of one that was around the ã150 mark. Ring any bells for someone? I can't remember for the life of me what it was called so searching for forums is a bit tough. :whistle:
Boiler replacement suggestions
- Thread starter Toredan
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Hops_and_Dreams
Landlord.
I've bought a 50ltr stainless electric boiler from the home brew shop and it's pretty good. I bought that size to avoid boil overs, but I think I could have got away with the size below, even for 5 gallon batches. It was around ã150ish.
The only thing I would say is that the 1 x 2.4kW element takes a while to get up to temperature and I've got a second element to fit to speed things up.
It's really solid though and the thermometer is as accurate as my spirit one.
If you want to go electric, then I'd recommend this.
The only thing I would say is that the 1 x 2.4kW element takes a while to get up to temperature and I've got a second element to fit to speed things up.
It's really solid though and the thermometer is as accurate as my spirit one.
If you want to go electric, then I'd recommend this.
Hops_and_Dreams
Landlord.
Leedsmedic
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I'm very tempted by this, was the element difficult to fit and did you need any other kit to get a water tight seal?
Also, is there a way of easily earthing the metal boiler itself? I will mostly be boiling outside so I guess it wouldn't be hard to do a DIY earth wire directly into the ground but it would be nice if it were already sorted.
I have found that my boiler/mash tun takes some beating I use a insulated hot water cylinder cut in half and upturned so use the top half with a short immersion heater in, bent over to be below boil level, I made a thick wooded lid to fit (2inch), when mashing as it is insulated I have found if I have the strike water at 80 degrees then add grain the temp will hold at around 65 degrees for 90 min, draw off is via a valve in the domed base, I use a perforated disc over outlet, for the boil leave the lid off, hope this of help
Hops_and_Dreams
Landlord.
Well, I did have a bit of trouble initially getting it water tight. The tap and other fittings were fine, but it eventually became obvious that the element itself was leaking. They sent me a replacement and all was ok. Just used a bit of PTFE tape on the thread. I did have to buy a C spanner to tighten the element nut, although I guess you could use a hammer and screwdriver to tap it round.
The boiler itself is not earthed, but you could do as you have suggested if needed.
Sorry to drag up an old post, but I'm thinking about getting the same boiler, or maybe the size below. Roughly how long does it take to bring a 5 gallon batch to a boil? And does it keep a rolling boil ok?
Cheers.
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1 x element should boil 5 gallons ok, but fitting 2 x will allow you to speed up the heat up to boil and provide the ability to vary the boil off rate if you over sparged by an extra violent 2 x element boil 
and perhaps more importantly provide a back up should you suffer an element failure.
but if your boiling in a metal boiler you may need to lag the outside to retain some heat, partially lidding, or floating a SS bowl to reduce the surface area can also accelerate a weak boil.
buy a 33l or 50l ss pot from bergland direct for ã30-40 (it was ã45 for a 98l pot a few years ago?? dunno what they are now??) and spend ã25 on 2 x qmax punches(20mm + 38.5mm) ã10 on 2 x budget kettles and ã15-ã30? on brass or SS pipe fittings n valves for a drain and put the rest of your budget towards grain yeast n hops imho.
email bergland @ [email protected] for an off ebay.fr price quote (a lil cheaper as no ebay fees) for a pot delivered to you within a few days after you pay for it via a paypal invoice. just remember to open the box and inspect before signing so if badly dented by the courier you can return it there n then before signing due to damage to speed up the replacement, (ive had 4 pots delivered, 1 was damaged and was returned after an email and photo, but the collection and return took an extra week or so i could have avoided with a doorstep inspection.)
and perhaps more importantly provide a back up should you suffer an element failure.but if your boiling in a metal boiler you may need to lag the outside to retain some heat, partially lidding, or floating a SS bowl to reduce the surface area can also accelerate a weak boil.
buy a 33l or 50l ss pot from bergland direct for ã30-40 (it was ã45 for a 98l pot a few years ago?? dunno what they are now??) and spend ã25 on 2 x qmax punches(20mm + 38.5mm) ã10 on 2 x budget kettles and ã15-ã30? on brass or SS pipe fittings n valves for a drain and put the rest of your budget towards grain yeast n hops imho.
email bergland @ [email protected] for an off ebay.fr price quote (a lil cheaper as no ebay fees) for a pot delivered to you within a few days after you pay for it via a paypal invoice. just remember to open the box and inspect before signing so if badly dented by the courier you can return it there n then before signing due to damage to speed up the replacement, (ive had 4 pots delivered, 1 was damaged and was returned after an email and photo, but the collection and return took an extra week or so i could have avoided with a doorstep inspection.)
Cheers for the reply. I've often thought about building my own as I'm pretty handy when it comes to diy. There's something about the thought of mixing boiling wort and electricity in a diy build that's deterred me until now.
But as my nana always used to say "you've got to die of something". Might as well be a Homebrew fire :lol:
But as my nana always used to say "you've got to die of something". Might as well be a Homebrew fire :lol:
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if you maintain a healthy respect of electricity in the build you should be fine imho
the hardest aspect of a SS stockpot boiler build is the initial opening or breaking the skin for pilot holes, and a sharp nail or screw and a hammer can be employed for the initial breach leaving an easy job of expanding the hole with a succession of increasing size standard drill bits
with my pride n joy ss pot kit build i sourced brewing elements which earth the pot against the element body by employing a single inner wall silicone seal.
however my #1 boiler was a 50l hdpe blue barrel (ex mango chutney barrel) fitted with kettle elements backed with small �ãshop food boxes which worked a treat. if you cant freecycle an ex mango chutney barrel from a local indian restaurant they were on sale on ebay for �ã11 delivered. they do require a good clean and period airing out to de-whiff
hdpe does soften with boiling temps so to stop the mouth ovaling as a consequence i cut the centre from the lid and used the lid frame to maintain the round mouth.
the copperkettle online brewshop sell more robust PP buckets (euro buckets) 33l and 67l which make great boilers and dont soften like hdpe but do cost a bit more, and iirc they will cut element and drain holes foc, in fact they can sell you everything from elements to drilled out brass compression tank connectors for threading cooper tube into the boiler for hop filter fixing too.. no im not associated with em beyond being a satisfied customer..
fyi
hdpe boiler with 2 x tesco budget kettle elements
a 67l PP bucket hlt
and the 98l stock pot boiler with low watt density 100% SS brewing elements courtesy of MrLard aka the homebrewbuilder Wot deadspace?
the hardest aspect of a SS stockpot boiler build is the initial opening or breaking the skin for pilot holes, and a sharp nail or screw and a hammer can be employed for the initial breach leaving an easy job of expanding the hole with a succession of increasing size standard drill bits
with my pride n joy ss pot kit build i sourced brewing elements which earth the pot against the element body by employing a single inner wall silicone seal.
however my #1 boiler was a 50l hdpe blue barrel (ex mango chutney barrel) fitted with kettle elements backed with small �ãshop food boxes which worked a treat. if you cant freecycle an ex mango chutney barrel from a local indian restaurant they were on sale on ebay for �ã11 delivered. they do require a good clean and period airing out to de-whiff
hdpe does soften with boiling temps so to stop the mouth ovaling as a consequence i cut the centre from the lid and used the lid frame to maintain the round mouth.
the copperkettle online brewshop sell more robust PP buckets (euro buckets) 33l and 67l which make great boilers and dont soften like hdpe but do cost a bit more, and iirc they will cut element and drain holes foc, in fact they can sell you everything from elements to drilled out brass compression tank connectors for threading cooper tube into the boiler for hop filter fixing too.. no im not associated with em beyond being a satisfied customer..
fyi
hdpe boiler with 2 x tesco budget kettle elements
a 67l PP bucket hlt
and the 98l stock pot boiler with low watt density 100% SS brewing elements courtesy of MrLard aka the homebrewbuilder Wot deadspace?
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