Bottling question

[Mike1892]

Hello, I put on a coopers australian pale ale kit on sunday evening 26th. i checked the gravity at the beginning which was 1042. i then checked it again after 3 days and it read 1010. the following night it was the same, but tonight has dropped to 1009. i was just wondering whether this is likely to be finished, or what i might expect it to drop to? i made up 23litres as per kit instructions and it has fermented between 21 and 23 degrees. thanks, Mike.

 

[Brewerboy]

I would leave it for at least 10 days but 14 is best.
It lets the yeast clear up after its self and will let the yeast drop out so you get a clearer beer.
Patience is the best policy for the best results.
Hope this helps
Jacob

 

[joe1002]

+1

 

[Mike1892]

is there no point using a hydrometer then?

 

[supersteve]

With the hydrometer readings you can work out how strong the beer is :thumb:

It also works to see when it has stopped fermenting, and if after 10 days it's not down to the correct level you'll know it has stuck or not.. Hope that helps.

 

[Mike1892]

thats helpful, thanks. there was no recommended final gravity on the kit instructions - what would you expect this to reach as final gravity?

 

[Fil]

Generally when a kit reaches 1010 u can bottle as any residuals wont be enough to make a bottle bomb, but the test for the same static reading over 3 consecutive days is the copper bottom approach.

the longer in the fv (without going mad), the more chance it has to settle out and clarify in the bucket/fermentor.

if possible when finished pop it outside/in the garage/shed for a few days the cold will help it clear too prior to bottling.

 

[BREWERS DROOP]

Once bottled what temperature should it be kept at?

 

[Sandimas]

1-2 weeks in the warm (18C or so) after bottling to generate some CO2, then in a cool place for longer term storage.

And +1 to sticking it somewhere cool for a couple of days prior to bottling, just done this for the first time and the beer is so much clearer.

 

[Mike1892]

is the advantage of leaving the beer for longer before bottling all about the clearness of the beer? does it have any affect on flavour?

 

[Mike1892]

Generally when a kit reaches 1010 u can bottle as any residuals wont be enough to make a bottle bomb, but the test for the same static reading over 3 consecutive days is the copper bottom approach.

the longer in the fv (without going mad), the more chance it has to settle out and clarify in the bucket/fermentor.

if possible when finished pop it outside/in the garage/shed for a few days the cold will help it clear too prior to bottling.

how long is 'going mad'? i was always taught that leaving it too long would make it go flat, but this doesnt seem to be the general consensus on this forum. interested to know more about this if you know? thanks

 

[Fil]

2-3 months or longer wld be going mad
the lagering period for lagers can be 4-6 weeks so as long as u dont forget about it completely itl be fine...


peekin in with your head over the beer is a big no-no all sorts drop of heads

you dont build up fizz in the beer till its in a bottle or keg which is sealed and can contain the pressure,

Once you have finished the primary fermentation in the bucket you then bottle or keg with a small amount of priming sugar, thats the fuel used to build up the condition or fizz in the bottle or keg..

 

[Mike1892]

thanks.

i have actually gotten impatient and bottled the stuff. i have noticed that the priming sugar is partically stuck to the bottom of the bottle now the beer is in it. would you recommend turning it upside down a few times to get it to disolve, or would this introduce oxygen into the beer and spoil it?

thanks!

 

[Slid]

thanks.

i have actually gotten impatient and bottled the stuff. i have noticed that the priming sugar is partically stuck to the bottom of the bottle now the beer is in it. would you recommend turning it upside down a few times to get it to disolve, or would this introduce oxygen into the beer and spoil it?

thanks!

The priming sugar is in the same place as the yeast and the sugar is going to both disolve and get eaten in the timescales before you should move it to the cool. So I would not be over fussy about shaking it around.

Turning it around, if you wanted to save some sugar for whatever reason, you would not try hiding it in a bottle of beer.

 

[Mike1892]

thanks.

the temperature in my airing cupboard, where all my bottles are stashed is getting as high as 28 - 30 degrees when the boiler is on. can anyone advise if this will kill the remaining yeast and stop it getting fizzy?

 

[devexwarrior]

Would a combination of fining and cooling before bottling still leave enough residual yeast for decent SF in the bottle? Temp control is not an issue as I have a brew fridge.

 

[Fil]

unless u filter with a sub 5 micron media u will have plenty of yeast in the clearest beer from fermentation for your conditioning..

 

[devexwarrior]

unless u filter with a sub 5 micron media u will have plenty of yeast in the clearest beer from fermentation for your conditioning..

Thanks - I want this one as clear as possible as a fair proportion is destined for end-users not familiar with sediment and careful pouring.

 

[Fil]

sediment is unavoidable with a live beer, after 6 months or so in the cold the sediment can become more solid and resistant to movement or pour disturbance.. but not guaranteed..

to bottle clear beer its best to condition in a keg and use a counterpressure bottling device like the blitchman beergun to purge air from the bottle with co2 prior to filling cold and under pressure from the keg (not a PB).. OR make a feature of the sediment to prove its a healthy live beer

 

[rpt]

the temperature in my airing cupboard, where all my bottles are stashed is getting as high as 28 - 30 degrees when the boiler is on. can anyone advise if this will kill the remaining yeast and stop it getting fizzy?

It won't kill the yeast but it isn't the best for storing beer. During the early stages of fermenation anything over about 23C is bad for off flavours. Now that the beer is in bottles it may not be so critical but it still sounds far too warm to me. Somewhere in the house should be fine for carbonating - a normal centrally heated room is a good temperature, but not right next to a radiator. I put my bottles next to the boiler but it's a utility room so doesn't get too hot.