Citra pale ale

[Marcarm]

Looking for some feedback on this recipe that I am planning on brewing on Thursday. I'm looking for something very hoppy, maybe not in the Brew Dog region but similar.

Amt	Name	Type	#	%/IBU
5.00 kg	Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC)	Grain	1	95.2 %
40.00 g	Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min	Hop	3	40.1 IBUs
30.00 g	Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min	Hop	4	8.7 IBUs
30.00 g	Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 2.0 min	Hop	5	3.7 IBUs
30.00 g	Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 1.0 min	Hop	6	1.9 IBUs
0.25 kg	Wheat, Torrified (3.3 EBC)	Grain	2	4.8 %

I also have the rest of the pack of Centennial (60g) about 70g of Kazbek and 100g of Crystal that I can add during the boil/dry hop if needed.

I'm making this to 23l, using up the last of the bag of pale malt I have. Also have a bit of Acid malt but not sure the recipe needs it.

 

[Dads_Ale]

Looks pretty good and I would use some of your left over centennial for dry hopping.

 

[Brewberoza]

Looking for some feedback on this recipe that I am planning on brewing on Thursday. I'm looking for something very hoppy, maybe not in the Brew Dog region but similar.

Amt    Name    Type    #    %/IBU
5.00 kg    Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC)    Grain    1    95.2 %
40.00 g    Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min    Hop    3    40.1 IBUs
30.00 g    Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 5.0 min    Hop    4    8.7 IBUs
30.00 g    Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 2.0 min    Hop    5    3.7 IBUs
30.00 g    Citra [13.20 %] - Boil 1.0 min    Hop    6    1.9 IBUs
0.25 kg    Wheat, Torrified (3.3 EBC)    Grain    2    4.8 %

I also have the rest of the pack of Centennial (60g) about 70g of Kazbek and 100g of Crystal that I can add during the boil/dry hop if needed.

I'm making this to 23l, using up the last of the bag of pale malt I have. Also have a bit of Acid malt but not sure the recipe needs it.

Looks good. Very hoppy as you said. What did you hope to achieve, however, from the two separate additions at 2 min and 1 min? You might consider, dry hopping or are you aware of the effect of steep hopping? If I am not getting confused with amarillo then citra give a lot of aromatics just steeping after the boil. The effect i not quite as intense as dry hopping but something to consider. Heat exchange speed is a factor with a beer like this but don't get me wrong it should be an excellent beer.

 

[Marcarm]

Do you know what, I'm not sure what the purpose of the 2min and 1min was, I could just chuck them both in at the same time.

I have added before at flame out and left 30 mins before cooling, but I have now gone to no-chill so not sure if this is something I can still do without it affecting the finished product.

I have only dry hopped one previous beer and lost a lot from the final volume due to the absorption of the hops, I could always make a hop tea so I don't get that again?

Will this be hoppy but not too bitter?

 

[Brewberoza]

Do you know what, I'm not sure what the purpose of the 2min and 1min was, I could just chuck them both in at the same time.

I have added before at flame out and left 30 mins before cooling, but I have now gone to no-chill so not sure if this is something I can still do without it affecting the finished product.

I have only dry hopped one previous beer and lost a lot from the final volume due to the absorption of the hops, I could always make a hop tea so I don't get that again?

Will this be hoppy but not too bitter?

Not too familiar with hop tea but yeah dry hopping is a pain for the reason of soakage not to mention how it effects the over all price... but sometimes, it is worth it.

Enjoy the beer.:

 

[Dads_Ale]

Do you know what, I'm not sure what the purpose of the 2min and 1min was, I could just chuck them both in at the same time.

I have added before at flame out and left 30 mins before cooling, but I have now gone to no-chill so not sure if this is something I can still do without it affecting the finished product.

I have only dry hopped one previous beer and lost a lot from the final volume due to the absorption of the hops, I could always make a hop tea so I don't get that again?

Will this be hoppy but not too bitter?

I don't think you have to be too critical about these additions.
I dry hop using the stainless tea balls, 4 off with 10g in each. Yes you lose a little bit of liquid but it is worth it .

 

[Brewberoza]

Oh ... if you are worried about bitterness pull back on the centennial by a lot! Depending on your set up there is a lot of alplas coming in at the end with the citra. 90g is a lot even in 5 minutes.

Might be something you have to experiment with. If you have done other beers in similar style try and use that as a target for IBU. Keep the late hops as you like them because that is where the hoppiness will come from. Adjust the centennial to reach your target for bitterness.

We all have made home brews where we have no idea of the hop utilisation and claim it has x IBUs. In truth all we have is beer and maths and some sort of correlation. That is why I suggested using a previously brewed beer as a IBU template. So, you like its bitterness and IBU calc say 40 IBU, for example. Take off the estimated late hops alpha and then add the rest from the first addition.

 

[Marcarm]

Very useful info, thanks all.

I've tinkered with it a little and will be getting the mash on tomorrow night for a boil on Thursday morning.

As you might tell I'm quite new to coming up with my own recipes, just starting to learn which hops go with which others etc.

Part of the fun with this hobby is learning and trying new things :):)

 

[Dads_Ale]

I find doing your own thing is a big attraction of AG brewing.
Sometimes you get it slightly wrong but hey that's half the fun.
Boring just following somebody else's recipe ....

And JBK is lagging well behind (laugh) he he

 

[Marcarm]

After doing a bit of reading, I've decided to leave the hop tea alone, and will dry hop.

Now I've heard conflicting reports of using pellets over leaf. I normally use leaf but I was only able to get citra and centennial pellets, not sure on the quantity yet but after fermentation has stopped I will dryhop (not sure if a muslin bag will have any effect in containing them?) for 3-5 days before transferring to the bottling bucket and bottling as normal.

Although I have read about someone who put their hops into a cafetiere and added their priming solution to that, and seemed to get good results so that might be worth bearing in mind.

 

[LarryF]

After doing a bit of reading, I've decided to leave the hop tea alone, and will dry hop

Although I have read about someone who put their hops into a cafetiere and added their priming solution to that, and seemed to get good results so that might be worth bearing in mind.

I do like the sound of that, I wonder what adding a hop tea a couple of days before before bottling would do to a beer. I could use a funnel and tubing and go in through the airlock hole in order to minimise the risk of infection, definitely worth considering.

 

[YeastFace]

When no chilling, a lot of people will adjust their hop additions. The thinking behind this is that although the hops will have been removed before the wort is put into the chill cube, the alpha acids are still present in the wort and the heat will continue to extract bitterness. I used this chart from another site when I was no-chilling: