First "proper" shiny

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oldjiver

Landlord.
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As I am addicted to my plastic mash tun (IGLOO) I have lacked a bit of tin (stainless) But I have sold my semi-shiny ACE boiler and ordered a 33litre boiler from Rob the Miller. Got to sort out the element now.
 
Arrived lunch time today. Wonderful delivery service, you can track the driver as he does his round. Very good quality pot. My 2.6kw element is exactly 40mm, the same as the hole, so it wont quite go in. Any advice on filing or grinding a little off will be appreciated.
 
Cant get an old style lead anywhere, so I may have to make one up from ebay bits as suggested by a member in another thread.
 
My 2.6kw element is exactly 40mm, the same as the hole, so it wont quite go in. Any advice on filing or grinding a little off will be appreciated.
Have you tried screwing it in (worth the ask)...it's just a case of going round the existing hole with a file, it'll be noisy and time consuming but you should get an engineers fit :grin:
Re the lead, if it's the old 3 pin type Backer sell them...but at a cost! There was also a link here a little while ago about an ebay seller...worth a search.
 
Vossy1 said:
My 2.6kw element is exactly 40mm, the same as the hole, so it wont quite go in. Any advice on filing or grinding a little off will be appreciated.
Have you tried screwing it in (worth the ask)...it's just a case of going round the existing hole with a file, it'll be noisy and time consuming but you should get an engineers fit :grin:
Re the lead, if it's the old 3 pin type Backer sell them...but at a cost! There was also a link here a little while ago about an ebay seller...worth a search.
Thanks Vossy. The thread starts about a quarter inch behind so no screw in. I have ordered the bits off ebay as suggested, and bought a bit of appropriate cable so its just a job of putting it together and getting filing.
 
hairybiker said:
You can plug in a standard IEC connector on to them, I do. :thumb:

I hadn't seen that you could use an ordinary kettle lead :doh: It wouldnt look such a "wiry" thing like that. I think I am harking back to my oldest boiler, which was the top of an aluminium Burco with the kettle element added (and then put back in the kettle!!) I have sent off for the "two round one flat" plug fittings on ebay and picked a bit of 13amp lead up at Maplins today. So I will be building a lead anyday soon. I will also get my washers as recommended here.
(P.S.) It was the top of the Burco because the original whole one (inherited from mother-in-law who boiled her drawers in it :sick: :sick: ) blew up in the middle of a brew :eek: When I couldnt fix it I got in a temper and threw it down the garden steps. It broke in two revealing a perfect pot.
 
I decided to go the "Tesco" route and did it this morning. The element I originally bought (for £3.50) will need the pot filing out and might make it unsuitable for future elements, so I cut my losses and lashed out on a Tesco kettle.
It was a doddle to fit once I had bulked out the gasket with a 40 mm washer (as recommended on this site).
It is watertight cold, but I havent tested it hot as the lead I will use is down my mums where I am going tomorrow.
Here are some pictures... I havent bothered sawing off the excess.

Looks a picture doesn't it?


Inside view, lovely job hop strainer, well done Rob!

Original element I was going to use.

Kettle spare parts for sale, Any offers :D :D
 
Looking good o. A little tip, once used hot re tighten the backing nut, try this after the 1st few brews, there will probably be a fair bit of movement at 1st. How much do you want for the element, is it a 2.75kw :hmm:

EDIT, question answered
My 2.6kw element is exactly 40mm
 
If you take off the excess you can fit a piece of silicone sealant tube, or a cut down 50g tanin (Youngs type) container over the back of the element to create a shroud, which will give the plug a bit of protection should you spill any water over the side. Shiney does look nice though. :thumb:
 
supercooper said:
The little disc in the centre is a boil dry safety cut out. It will not turn off the element at boiling point, so it's worth leaving it in there. It certainly does no harm.
The other disc is the one that controls the element, and you've quite rightly removed it with the rest of the moulding, including the little white pin that will more than likely fall out when the switch lever is removed.
A great how-to. :D

For some reason, the disc in the centre(or more importantly, the tiny pin behind it) needs to be removed on stainless set-ups. I have just found this out by having the elements cycle on and off on my new stainless boiler. I had to drain it, remove the elements and the annoying disc and pin, reassemble and get boiling. PITA. it never happened on my plastic setup. Must be due to heat transfer.
:wha:[/quote
I have removed the disc and cut off the pin. Can I take it that the element is permanently on? (having taken off the switch I suppose so)
 
Vossy1 said:
Looking good o. A little tip, once used hot re tighten the backing nut, try this after the 1st few brews, there will probably be a fair bit of movement at 1st. How much do you want for the element, is it a 2.75kw :hmm:

EDIT, question answered
My 2.6kw element is exactly 40mm
I am saving the 2.6kw for if I do decide to open up the hole a bit in case the 2.2kw is not enough.
 
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