bobsbeer
Well-Known Member
oldjiver said:
Yes unless you put in an inline switch.
First "proper" shiny
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Yes unless you put in an inline switch.
oldjiver
Landlord.
Found this I would have considered if I had seen it earlier.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-KET ... 27cf569be9
and
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KETTLE-NYLON- ... 2a2ce9dfb7.
and
http://www.questelectrical.co.uk/brass- ... -40mm.html
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-KET ... 27cf569be9
and
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KETTLE-NYLON- ... 2a2ce9dfb7.
and
http://www.questelectrical.co.uk/brass- ... -40mm.html
evanvine
Landlord.
Needs to be removed for any boiling setup!
oldjiver
Landlord.
Really peeeded off :wha: Got a kettle lead today and plugged in... NOTHING HAPPENED!!
Did everything as per instructions on this site. Took out the centre disc and pin as advised for stainless. What have I done wrong.
Did everything as per instructions on this site. Took out the centre disc and pin as advised for stainless. What have I done wrong.
bobsbeer
Well-Known Member
By removing the disk you may not be getting contact with the element. Check that.
oldjiver
Landlord.
Just followed instructions to remove the disc????? (check what?)
bobsbeer
Well-Known Member
You need to ensure the back of the element contacts the back of the plug section when you put the two halves together. I suspect when you ripped out the disk you have prevented the contacts touching. I bent my disk up rather than removed it. Like the picture from Big Yin's How To.
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also dble check the element.. with a multi=meter turn it to a resistance setting, when the probes are touched the 1 value will drop to zero, test the element by touching the probes to each of the power points, it should conduct and read 0 if ok. think its called a continuity test?
then connect to the pot and test the socket prongs, if u dont get a zero reading the back housing isnt making contact with the element.. look at your washer gasget thickness it may be too thick not allowing a contact, or too thin allowing the contact points to push past each other??
good luck..
then connect to the pot and test the socket prongs, if u dont get a zero reading the back housing isnt making contact with the element.. look at your washer gasget thickness it may be too thick not allowing a contact, or too thin allowing the contact points to push past each other??
good luck..
oldjiver
Landlord.
Just took it apart again, screwed it together without any washers so its definitely touching, still no go. I have left the little light on the socket, so should that come on if there is power?. I dont have any electrical testing equipment so I cant do a proper electrical check.evanvine said:
There seems to be a difference of opinion about removing the centre disc?
(I am testing it by laying it on a bit of wood in the kitchen and turning it on for a few second to check it rather than have to keep emptying my boiler. It isn't heating up at all and the lights not coming on).
evanvine
Landlord.
This may be obvious, but have you checked your lead and fuse?
oldjiver
Landlord.
Brand new! but I havent got anything to check it with other than putting my finger in and turning on the power! 
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a 9v battery, a bit of wire and 9-12v lamp bulb or even the tip of the tongue are the poormans multimeter.
if the element isnt conducting its not working.
did the diddy white peg just fall out when the ping ring was pulled? or did you have to get pliers on it? afaik (which isnt much), if the thing heats up and the metal ring deforms and pings out of cool shape it pushes the pin in to cut the circuit, if no ping ring cos its been pulled you needent pull the white pin too as there is nothing to push it without the ring in place.
if the element isnt conducting its not working.
did the diddy white peg just fall out when the ping ring was pulled? or did you have to get pliers on it? afaik (which isnt much), if the thing heats up and the metal ring deforms and pings out of cool shape it pushes the pin in to cut the circuit, if no ping ring cos its been pulled you needent pull the white pin too as there is nothing to push it without the ring in place.
oldjiver
Landlord.
I have plugged the power cable in, and I am about to stick my tongue instead of my finger down it :shock:
oldjiver
Landlord.
Seriously though....
I pulled at the pin with pliers and it wouldnt come out so I cut it off. I am about to get a proper element off ebay and start again. I really appreciate the electrical advice, thanks all, but I suspect its just broke.
I pulled at the pin with pliers and it wouldnt come out so I cut it off. I am about to get a proper element off ebay and start again. I really appreciate the electrical advice, thanks all, but I suspect its just broke.
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a cheap basic multimeter can be picked up for about a fiver, its a good invstment and can pay for itself quickly if u only use it for checking batteries..
and using it on a resistance setting makes it a simple test to check conductivity without any power connected
I put 2 x tesco elements in my #1 boiler now sold on so i cant strip it back to confirm my recollection. But 1st i left ping ring and pin as is, after a few brews the elements started cutting out, so on the 1st to go i did what Bob did and just bent back the ping ring, when the second went i think i just pulled it off and with both I yanked out the pin with pliers.. I suspect in cutting it off you may have accidently pressed it in a bit and it may be stuck OFF??? the pinched cut bit stopping it from popping back out????? u have nothing to loose by digging/drilling it out, at this stage
-old pic
the led/diode on one hasnt lit up since the hack, but the element heats up ok, the one (1st pic) the diode/lamp works and gets Very hot as u can see its scorched the enclosure lid.
and while its unlikely a new lead could be faulty or have a duff fuse fitted, its not imposible, as its a similar lead to a pc lead, u can test the kettle lead by using it on a pc or monitor.. thats safe, its just not safe to use a non hot condition pc lead on a kettle element..
You will get the new boiler up :)
Once sorted and as long as u scrub back post boil a tesco element should give u very good service, unlike some 'pico' i think elements (sold by brewshops) as they can rust on the backplate regardless of being stamped SS, i got 2 from an online brewshop, and they rusted with contact with water! i got a speedy refund so cant fault the seller, but im not alone suffering that particular problem..
after the brewshop elements i took a punt on 2 chinese ebay bargains, only 1.5kw, and are ment to replace elements in thin metal walled kettles as i had to shave 1/2 the gasket off to fit em into a placky bucket and getb the back to connect with the element. in your SS pot they would just fit in with no mods needed.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Ste ... 43bbcd064b
but i think 2 would be needed in your pot, i used 2 in a 66l bucket hlt..
they can boil 50l and while a bit naff the placky backing shroud is quite a neat solution, needing no further mods or work..
But as said its worth digging out the cut off pin first as i suspect that may just sort u out..
ps the pin in the ebay elements just falls out when u bend back the ping ring.. no hassle..
and using it on a resistance setting makes it a simple test to check conductivity without any power connected
I put 2 x tesco elements in my #1 boiler now sold on so i cant strip it back to confirm my recollection. But 1st i left ping ring and pin as is, after a few brews the elements started cutting out, so on the 1st to go i did what Bob did and just bent back the ping ring, when the second went i think i just pulled it off and with both I yanked out the pin with pliers.. I suspect in cutting it off you may have accidently pressed it in a bit and it may be stuck OFF??? the pinched cut bit stopping it from popping back out????? u have nothing to loose by digging/drilling it out, at this stage
the led/diode on one hasnt lit up since the hack, but the element heats up ok, the one (1st pic) the diode/lamp works and gets Very hot as u can see its scorched the enclosure lid.
and while its unlikely a new lead could be faulty or have a duff fuse fitted, its not imposible, as its a similar lead to a pc lead, u can test the kettle lead by using it on a pc or monitor.. thats safe, its just not safe to use a non hot condition pc lead on a kettle element..
You will get the new boiler up :)
Once sorted and as long as u scrub back post boil a tesco element should give u very good service, unlike some 'pico' i think elements (sold by brewshops) as they can rust on the backplate regardless of being stamped SS, i got 2 from an online brewshop, and they rusted with contact with water! i got a speedy refund so cant fault the seller, but im not alone suffering that particular problem..
after the brewshop elements i took a punt on 2 chinese ebay bargains, only 1.5kw, and are ment to replace elements in thin metal walled kettles as i had to shave 1/2 the gasket off to fit em into a placky bucket and getb the back to connect with the element. in your SS pot they would just fit in with no mods needed.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Ste ... 43bbcd064b
but i think 2 would be needed in your pot, i used 2 in a 66l bucket hlt..
they can boil 50l
and while a bit naff the placky backing shroud is quite a neat solution, needing no further mods or work..
But as said its worth digging out the cut off pin first as i suspect that may just sort u out..
ps the pin in the ebay elements just falls out when u bend back the ping ring..
no hassle..I've used 3 value elements, on all I cut the top section off and pulled the centre disc off. There was a tiny grey pin that fell out and the bigger white one, I didn't touch. I have noticed the last 2 have thin cable which I was worried about getting hot though.
oldjiver
Landlord.
I cant believe all the help I am getting on here :thumb:
I have got as much of the white pin out as I can (back to base level. I can push it, and it springs up and down so it is not stuck. I have checked the contact pins and they are touching the pads OK. I have changed the fuse in the NEW kettle lead and it still don't work
I should have actually tried the kettle before taking it to bits, (that would have been bright) it may have been faulty from the start.
The element I was looking at on EBAY has replied to my query about size and it is 41mm :wha: Why dont they make them all the same? If I make the 40mm hole bigger it will be difficult to make it smaller again :hmm:
I have got as much of the white pin out as I can (back to base level. I can push it, and it springs up and down so it is not stuck. I have checked the contact pins and they are touching the pads OK. I have changed the fuse in the NEW kettle lead and it still don't work
I should have actually tried the kettle before taking it to bits, (that would have been bright) it may have been faulty from the start.
The element I was looking at on EBAY has replied to my query about size and it is 41mm :wha: Why dont they make them all the same? If I make the 40mm hole bigger it will be difficult to make it smaller again :hmm:
oldjiver
Landlord.
Down to ARGOS tomorrow I think.
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