First timer advice on heatpads

[scottydog.]

The gradual ease out is starting .

I still sometimes sneak an FV into the spare bedroom though.

I know how you feel my better half
is an expert at the easing out

 

[matt.]

I'm in Highlands. Usually ferment in utility room, but it's too warm to ferment lager there.

So did Budvar in garage (23L batch; Wyeast 2000 Budvar yeast; started 10-12-23), on 20W heated pad + inkbird controller with probe between pad and fermenter; covered with old 4.5 tog single duvet; with a bin bag over that.

Wanted initial ferment 10°C, untill SG 1036, then 19°C.
During cold snap, found that initial ferment temperature at top of liquid was 5°C lower than at base (where probe was).

Then moved probe, sticking it on fermenter around 1/4 of the way up.
Now, with set temp 10.5°C, and room temp 7°C: top was 9.5°C; base (above heat pad) was 15°C.

Once fermentation temperature upped to 19°C, there would be more heat loss, and a bigger differential between top & bottom. But didn't get any readings, with being away, and on return finding controller was off (having locked up after power dip). Temperature was 3.5°C throughout, but ferment had reached target by then anyway.

Was a bit worried about the 15°C, being excessive, but first taste (at end of 28 day ferment) seemed fine.
Might use much more insulation next time.

Re the Inkbird; I've just bought one and have yet to use it. I thought the probe could/ should go into the liquid?

 

[foxy]

Re the Inkbird; I've just bought one and have yet to use it. I thought the probe could/ should go into the liquid?

No, you need a thermowell to put your temperature probe into. Easy to knock something up.

 

[matt.]

No, you need a thermowell to put your temperature probe into. Easy to knock something up.

Like a long tube?

 

[foxy]

For you, get a hose barb with maybe 1/2 " BSP male thread, the barb to fit some straightened tube, and a tube closure. 1/2" BSP nut drill fermenter lid to suit. Or have a look for a s/steel thermowell on AliExpress.
One I knocked up.

 

[Chippy_Tea]

I thought the majority taped the probe to the side under a sponge as mention in the post below.

"on 20W heated pad + inkbird controller with probe between pad and fermenter; covered with old 4.5 tog single duvet; with a bin bag over that"

 

[MashBag]

Re the Inkbird; I've just bought one and have yet to use it. I thought the probe could/ should go into the liquid?

Not necessarily. Just bungee/tape it to the outside of the vessel beside the beer.
And then pop the insulation over the top.

Any gain you get from a thermowell on small batch size is negligible... Its just one material layer away from the beer, just the sand as the above method.

Yeast need steady temp far more than they need micron accuracy.

 

[foxy]

I thought the majority taped the probe to the side under a sponge as mention in the post below.


"on 20W heated pad + inkbird controller with probe between pad and fermenter; covered with old 4.5 tog single duvet; with a bin bag over that"

That is one way of doing it, but the temperature is 1-2C out. Not that it matters. But an ester bomb can be avoided with the probe in the centre of the exothermic action thrown up by the yeast. So often we read of setting temps at the higher end of the yeast parameter
when yeast can, not will, ferment up to 8C higher than ambient temperature

 

[foxy]

Not necessarily. Just bungee/tape it to the outside of the vessel beside the beer.
And then pop the insulation over the top.

Any gain you get from a thermowell on small batch size is negligible... Its just one material layer away from the beer, just the sand as the above method.

Yeast need steady temp far more than they need micron accuracy.

A typical answer which is why I advise researching answers instead of posting on a forum. For answers, there will always be wrong answers as we can see here. Those with the most to say are generally wrong.
https://byo.com/article/fermentation-temperature-control-tips-from-the-pros/

 

[MashBag]

That is one way of doing it, but the temperature is 1-2C out.

If it is indeed 1-2°c out (which I really doubt at small insulated volumes) a smart chap could calibrate accordily.

 

[MashBag]

A typical answer which is why I advise researching answers instead of posting on a forum. For answers, there will always be wrong answers as we can see here. Those with the most to say are generally wrong.
https://byo.com/article/fermentation-temperature-control-tips-from-the-pros/

All my answers have either been researched personally or come from personal trails and/or experience.

There is no one way.

 

[foxy]

All my answers have either been researched personally or come from personal trails and/or experience.

There is no one way.

Whatever.

 

[Twostage]

For you, get a hose barb with maybe 1/2 " BSP male thread, the barb to fit some straightened tube, and a tube closure. 1/2" BSP nut drill fermenter lid to suit. Or have a look for a s/steel thermowell on AliExpress.
One I knocked up.
View attachment 95742

I just sanitise the temp probe and put it straight into the wort either through a hole in the lid or under the lid if I'm using a stockpot or similar. Between brews I leave the probe in a mug of chemsan (lazy) but obviously you could clean and dry it if you need to move it. If you are using an air-lock you will need a suitably sized grommet to push it through to keep it air tight.

By the way, I use the probe in the wort to monitor its temp not control it. I only control the temp of whatever the FV is in (chamber, trub of water, fridge).

 

[Twostage]

Re the Inkbird; I've just bought one and have yet to use it. I thought the probe could/ should go into the liquid?

I don't think there is an absolutely correct answer to "where do I put the probe in a single probe setup".

If you tape it to the side it will be measuring the temp of the heat belt most of the time (i.e. when the wort is cooler than the belt, not a bad thing).

If you put it in the middle of the wort there will be a temperature differential between where it is and the outer volume of the wort which is closer to the heat belt. So hotter on the outside than the middle but OK if you account for this. This is negated during active fermentation as the churn will homogenise the temperature.

Both make beer .

 

[matt.]

Yikes, folks.
Many thanks for all the info and opinions thrown up. Much appreciated.
And a lot to ponder.
I have only just started all grain brews; 10 liters at a time. I'm feeling my way forward and buying bits of kit as I progress this hobby / minefield! I appreciate how important steady temp control is during fermentation so went for the inkbird.
Lots of other factors of course.
baby steps.....

 

[MashBag]

Also consider temp probe doesn't have to include any drilling, if you just attach it to the vessel.

 

[Twostage]

Yikes, folks.
Many thanks for all the info and opinions thrown up. Much appreciated.
And a lot to ponder.
I have only just started all grain brews; 10 liters at a time. I'm feeling my way forward and buying bits of kit as I progress this hobby / minefield! I appreciate how important steady temp control is during fermentation so went for the inkbird.
Lots of other factors of course.
baby steps.....

Just remember, it's hard to get it wrong .

 

[matt.]

But I'm a hard worker...

 

[peterpiper]

Where heat comes from a heat pad, and the ambient temperature is much lower, there is likely to be a vertical temperature differential (excepting during vigorous ferment).
Different sensor positions, wont change the vertical differential, they just need different offsets. Any offset needed, will likely depend on ambient temperature.

Once exothermic ferment is over, better insulation should give smaller differentials, and better control.

 

[matt.]

Where heat comes from a heat pad, and the ambient temperature is much lower, there is likely to be a vertical temperature differential (excepting during vigorous ferment).
Different sensor positions, wont change the vertical differential, they just need different offsets. Any offset needed, will likely depend on ambient temperature.

Once exothermic ferment is over, better insulation should give smaller differentials, and better control.

Many thanks.
I followed those points but can you clarify ' offset ' please.