How can I brew a hazey IPA?

[rb982]

Hi All,

I am wanting to brew a nice hazey citrusy IPA. Anyone have a nice recipe?

I'm not sure if I am running before walking here as I am a relative newby. I have not yet passed the stage of adding hop pellets to a starter kit so please go easy on me! :)

Thanks in advance!

Ross

 

[Cowman]

You can do a simple citra SMaSH brew
For 23l. Og 1.060 fg. 1.013
4.5kg pale malt or 4.85 light DME
30g citra @60mins
30g citra @ 15mins
30g citra @ 5mins
90g citra dry hop
Use safale so5 yeast
If you want it to be hazy then just just don't add any finings or don't cold crash.
Hope this helps

 

[Leon103]

You can do a simple citra SMaSH brew
For 23l. Og 1.060 fg. 1.013
4.5kg pale malt or 4.85 light DME
30g citra @60mins
30g citra @ 15mins
30g citra @ 5mins
90g citra dry hop
Use safale so5 yeast
If you want it to be hazy then just just don't add any finings or don't cold crash.
Hope this helps

I am not sure that is the best method to create an hazy beer.

I would look to had some wheat and oats. Also a bio transformation dry hop after 2 days. Personally I would also chance the yeast

 

[Benfleet Brewery]

I’ve done this one before a couple of times and loved it. NE IPA – Jon Finch Recipe | The Malt Miller

 

[Cowman]

I am not sure that is the best method to create an hazy beer.

True but it does keep it simple if he's only done kits before and adds some haze from the hops

 

[Leon103]

True but it does keep it simple if he's only done kits before and adds some haze from the hops

Don't see how it would be hazy

 

[Cowman]

Don't see how it would be hazy

It is my understanding that ipa's and neipas get a lot of there hazyness from hop haze from the dry hop additions. Wheat and oats help with it too of course.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Use wheat or oats, also a hazy yeast helps. No findings or cold crash. Dry hop, early at high fermentation and late, a two or three days before bottling

 

[Brew_DD2]

Use wheat or oats, also a hazy yeast helps. No findings or cold crash. Dry hop, early at high fermentation and late, a two or three days before bottling

Have to disagree with your point on the yeast. Yeast should play no part in the haze for this style, but can be helpful for producing some fruity esters. I've had so many of these where all you can taste is yeast in suspension and it's dreadful.

As you say at the end of your post, the timing and sheer amount of dry hopping, along with the use of wheat and oats is the key.

Personally I would steer well clear of the style until you really confident with your packaging process. These beers end up ruined inside a month with even minimal oxygen ingress.

 

[pilgrimhudd]

Have to disagree with your point on the yeast. Yeast should play no part in the haze for this style, but can be helpful for producing some fruity esters. I've had so many of these where all you can taste is yeast in suspension and it's dreadful.

As you say at the end of your post, the timing and sheer amount of dry hopping, along with the use of wheat and oats is the key.

Personally I would steer well clear of the style until you really confident with your packaging process. These beers end up ruined inside a month with even minimal oxygen ingress.

Using cml hazy yeast seems to work for me!

 

[Brew_DD2]

Using cml hazy yeast seems to work for me!

There does seem to be a lot of yeast manufacturers putting out low flocculating yeasts because it produces a hazy beer. If haze is what you are aiming for, then this will work.

If you're wanting the big fruity hit that you get from the better commercial examples, then you'll get the characteristic haze as a by-product of the interaction between the hop polyphenols and protein from the oats/wheat.

London Ale III is commonly the yeast of choice for the style, and it's an extraordinarily heavy flocculator.

 

[Hazelwood Brewery]

Beer haze comes from protein in the malt binding with polyphenols in the hops and producing molecules that are big enough to cloud the beer. If the molecules are too big though they become heavy and drop to the bottom. The trick is to get just the right size. Add some high protein adjuncts like oats and wheat and add lots of hops as late additions and in the dry hop phase.

As @Leon103 suggested in post #3 early dry hop is where a lot of this binding happens (bio-transformation), later in fermentation the yeast will have changed the chemistry of the beer making this binding less likely - also where the yeast comes in, high flocculation results in less protein/phenol binding.

Theory is great, putting it into practice is something else. (Not a word about my hazy IPA ).

 

[Leon103]

It is my understanding that ipa's and neipas get a lot of there hazyness from hop haze from the dry hop additions. Wheat and oats help with it too of course.

Yes but that needs to be done when fermentation is at its highest, around day 2 or 3.
You don't need much, only 10% of your total hops

 

[rb982]

Wow thanks everyone! There is some great info here. I must admit, alot of the terminology and processes have gone straight over my head so I will return to the homebrew book for a few chapters and come back to this thread. I am unsure whether I need a beer kit as a base before adding the additional ingredients above, or all raw ingredients from the start?

The Jon Finch recipe sounds great, and the advice on hops, oats and wheat and yeast type is going to be very useful. Thank you everyone!

 

[Crappyfish]

Hi All,

I am wanting to brew a nice hazey citrusy IPA. Anyone have a nice recipe?

I'm not sure if I am running before walking here as I am a relative newby. I have not yet passed the stage of adding hop pellets to a starter kit so please go easy on me! :)

Thanks in advance!

Ross

Hi
In my opinion if you are still on the steep learning curve a all grain NEIPA kit would probably suit best to start with. There are plenty around. It's just the price that makes the choice as they are all quite good. Then maybe change the yeast to Crossmyloof (online shop) to a hazy yeast which I have used and is decent. At least with a kit you only buy what you need and then you can see how it turns out then with some brewing software tweek the recipes see what happens.
Hope this helps.

 

[Telemaster18]

How’s your brewing process? Have you made a few successful beers with your current methods? If things are going well you should definitely get stuck in. Oxygen is the enemy with these beers - especially when loading with hops in the whirlpool and dry hop charge. I’ve wasted so much beer getting this part wrong. I have quite an unconventional method of using plastic bottles and squeezing out the headspace before capping. I also only open the fermenter twice - once for dry hopping and then to bottle. I do all this as quick as possible. I don’t cold crash for very long either as it’ll suck back oxygen into the fermenter. Hope this helps.