How dangerous is it?
- Thread starter MikeB.
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It's all about when do you want to use it.
Sterile wort, into a sterile container, with little/no air space should last for months at ambient (let's not get into the gas permeability of HDPE)
Let it cool in the kettle overnight, pitch next day. Which works for me for me everytime, so I consider cubes unnecessary if you are pitching next day.
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Do what works for you.
I'm in the mashbag camp:
Leave in the kettle for an hour or so, still hot enough to kill nasties, but not too hot to pour into FV.
Put in FV, move FV indoors & allow to cool overnight. Add yeast the next morning.
I'm in the mashbag camp:
Leave in the kettle for an hour or so, still hot enough to kill nasties, but not too hot to pour into FV.
Put in FV, move FV indoors & allow to cool overnight. Add yeast the next morning.
I cool in my boil pot. It is a 17l one which fits in the kitchen sink.As it cools it will become susceptible to airborne nastys
First I add some cool water, then add ice from the freezer. This way I get the temperature down to about 85°.
Then I fit a heat proof plastic bag on top of it, which is closed off airtight with a rubber band. The remaining heat and steam disinfect the remaining air, and the wort can cool without inlet of air. The bag itself is fitted loosely, so that there is room for the air to expand first due to the heat.
Next day I can pitch yeast, and then fit a cheesecloth and ferment open.
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I just turn off the BM and pop the lid on (vents had been taped up)
Mooney brew
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Do you change the hop additions to account for the no chill? Otherwise the beer would be a lot more bitter wouldn’t it?
I’m assuming there are online calculators for this.
Very interested in no chill as I hate wasting water although with winter coming the immersion chiller works faster due to colder ground water.
I plan on retiring to the Philippines in a few years and would benefit from no chill there I’m assuming.
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No difference. Take the hops out after boil / last hop stand.
Mooney brew
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Ahh so you bag your hops or hop spider them.
I tend to bag hops. But I also prefer real hops over pellets, as the pellet mush gets out of the bag & everywhere 
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Yup. MJ hop spider. Good for pellets and whole.
Sadfield
Landlord.
It appears 'the upgrade' needs more work and isn't as time saving or efficient as advertised.
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/fan-assisted-beer.103437/
https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/fan-assisted-beer.103437/
I've only used loose pellets and they disappear into the wort.
Will a hop spider keep the pellet 'mess' together?
I presumed the spiders were for real hops.
Thanks
Matt
Yep, keeps the majority of the pellet material in what I can only describe as a 'green sludge'.
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Short arms and deep pockets - that's me!Yes. Get your wallet out
So, we aren't worried about copper then? 
Thanks
I'll splash the cash.
I actually stopped using mine and replaced it with a hop plate instead as I got worried the hop spider was preventing the hops from getting sufficient contact with the wort. May have been a complete red herring though.
Agentgonzo
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The holes in the hop plate are much larger than in the spider, so it'll probably only work with whole hops.
I've found the hop plate does a decent enough job of stopping hops blocking the filter, which on the G30 is the main concern.
