KlarStein pro mash pump blockage

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JimmyJames1985

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Hi all,

Did my first all grain this weekend after many years doing extract kits. I have the klarStein pro mash 35, seems to work well but one significant issue... The pump for anti burn and reticulation didn't work after the first 10 mins, just as I started mashing. My assumption is the bazooka gets totally blocked, as well as small bits getting in the pump.

Anyone come across issue with this or a similar system? Is there something I Am doing that allows too much sediment to get past the false bottom? Any suggestion would be appreciated. Current thoughts are just to get a bigger bazooka..?

Thanks!
 
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Thanks foxy, I just used grain from malt Miller (crushed). I'll try uncrushed and see if it makes a difference next time
 
Thanks foxy, I just used grain from malt Miller (crushed). I'll try uncrushed and see if it makes a difference next time
You can't use un milled grain, well you could but the efficiency will only be 25 to 30%. Just ask for a coarser crush, or better still get yourself a mill, buy un milled grain and crush it yourself.
 
I also have a 35 litre Klarstein Brauheld and the bazooka is ****. I haven't had the pump stop due to bazooka blockage, but I do have problems with it at other times.

For example, when draining the cooled wort into the fermenter, sometimes I have to constantly scrape along the top/sides of the bazooka with my stirring spoon to clear it of trub and allow the wort to flow out of the tap. I also cool with an external plate cooler. Wort is circulated with the built-in Brauheld pump. Yesterday I had to do the same scraping of the bazooka during cooling.

Here's a video of someone who has made a better anti-burn circulator for the Brauheld:

There was a review video I once saw, from a Dutch guy, which I can't find again now. The only thing I remember from the outcome of the review was him saying "get a bigger bazooka".

Anyway, it seems like this is a bit of a known problem.
 
In case useful, take a look at this thread: DIY false bottom for Burco (easier to clean than a bazooka, too)

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This is all really helpful, thanks very much guys! I think based on comments above it's possible the pump maybe was semi blocked and semi not getting enough water because of blocked bazooka. I'll think I'll try a bigger bazooka and a coarser grain. A finer false bottom would prob work but may make the sparge too long, as already took some time.

I'll let you all know how I got on with the changes at next brewday

Thanks!
 
This is all really helpful, thanks very much guys! I think based on comments above it's possible the pump maybe was semi blocked and semi not getting enough water because of blocked bazooka. I'll think I'll try a bigger bazooka and a coarser grain. A finer false bottom would prob work but may make the sparge too long, as already took some time.

I'll let you all know how I got on with the changes at next brewday

Thanks!
I had one of the Klarstein Brauheld the flow over the top of the elements made no difference to the residue left on the bottom, as the residue left on the bottom from either my Guten or Hopcat.
Lower mashing wattage is what prevents any scorching.
 
Lower mashing wattage is what prevents any scorching.

What did you find worked best?

My general mashing steps looks like this:

Mash in at 45c
15 min @ 48c - 2000w
20 min @ 53c - 2000w
60 min @ 68c - 1500w
5 min @ 75c - 2500w

Then boil.
 
Just joined the forum and have a brauheld pro. bazooka always clogs at some point. I found don't recirculate for first 15mins of mash to allow grain bed to form, then you can circulate and lauter as slowly as you can. Bazooka then does not clog until near the end of boil. Once cooling done, I siphon off and try to drain through tap but it's a trickle- airates the wort well.
Grain basket grill has to coarse a bottom grill. I would love to use a big doughnut bazooka but the train basket feet are in the way.
 
1500w for 60 mins
As Foxy says you need to use lower wattages for the mash and I also do not boil above 1900 watts too this may take a slightly longer time to reach a boil (not much longer) and the boil may not be as vigorous but will be adequate. This has two benefits it stops scorching on the bottom plate and also extends the life of the bonded heating element which if you use the highest setting will definitely shorten the life of it.
Ps I have done over 100 brews with my Ace which the same as the Guten/ Hopcat etcetera
 

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