Peco boiler.

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Just tried to order the kit but it seems to be charging me for the grains too .should be included.
I've mailed them to see what happens. .
 
Both are the same boiler which is the main part of the kit. DO we still get 5% geterbrewed discount?

Don't forget if you are installing a second element to make sure your sockets/power supply can handle another 2.2kw of power. Its simple to do, but an element or take one out of a kettle and drill a hole in the boiler. Add some rubber washers and jobs done.
 
Yes the discount works .but the charge for the grains etc is on top.
Will see what the reply is. Maybe it comes off when you pay.
 
I've got the HBC peco and hop strainer and I'm very happy with them. When I ordered I put the name of the AG kit as a comment in the text box, as instructed on the website, so I wasn't charged for it. One tip I picked up for it here, after the hop strainer got blocked, is to put it in at a 90 degree angle, so with it going to the side and not straight down. I haven't had a blockage since doing this.
 
Hey guys. Interesting thread. I too am looking at upgrading.
Can I clarify please...
With the peco boiler...you heat the water to the desired temp.
Mash in the same boiler..remove the grains then boil in the same boiler...
Pretty much the same as I do on the hob.
Is that right?

Yes that's what I do.

I control my mash temp with my fridge's Inkbird but the thermostat would do the same job. If you use a separate mashtun then there would be no need for this but it does a great job mashing and boiling all in one. I recirculate the wort manually. I've done 2 brews like this and both have been my best to date.

One thing I would recommend is the false bottom. I BIAG including my hops but it still captures a lot of sludge.
 
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I've got the HBC peco and hop strainer and I'm very happy with them. When I ordered I put the name of the AG kit as a comment in the text box, as instructed on the website, so I wasn't charged for it. One tip I picked up for it here, after the hop strainer got blocked, is to put it in at a 90 degree angle, so with it going to the side and not straight down. I haven't had a blockage since doing this.

just got an email to say exactly that, put it in notes instead of selecting it.
:thumb:
 
Thanks for the detailed reply :cheers:

How easy was it to fit a second element? Is there an online thread/description/video etc. to show this? I think it would be a good investment to shorten brewdays. I'd also be tempted to fit a different ball lock valve as I've read the taps are a bit flimsy.

Also, why do you think the digital thermostat isn't required?

Heat the water to 72c, add the bag and spoon in the grain which will drop the temp to circa 66-67c, mash for 1 hour with the heat turned off and cover the boiler to hold the temp around 67c for the mash. After mash turn the heat on and remove grain bag. Bring to the boil and start the 1 hour boil with the heat on.

No need for any heat during the mash, read it can create hot spots if you turn the heat on with the grain bag installed. Hence no need for thermostat.

Easy to add a 2nd element, by drilling a 40mm hole in the boiler, but as mentioned by others careful with your electrics, I run the 2nd element on a different circuit to the 1st element as my house electrics are a bit 1970 !
 
whoop whoop.
just ordered the peco boiler kit,hop strainer. �£5 discount and delivery included,,
Now i can screw up on a larger scale !!!!!:oops:

Congratulations, which grain kit did you add? Bet you can't wait to give it a first run.

You need to end up with around 26l end of boil to get 23l in your fermentation vessel. Leaving around 3l of trub/hop debris in the boiler.

Good luck with it, make sure to let us know how you get on.
 
I've gone for the Hobble Wobble.i had a similar brew the other day and liked the chocolate undertones.
I'm hoping to improve my understanding of it all. I've done quite a few careless hob top brews.and boiled the life out of the wort.creating a rather syrupy beer. I've never bothered with og as I I'm not sure of the affect or how to adjust it. I just brewed it and drank it. All a bit lazy really. But like I say.im planning to take my time. Do some research and learn from the forum.
 
Did you buy the false bottom?

If not, consider it for a future purchase as it has made a decent difference to clarity for me.

You won't regret it btw and you'll never go back to can kits (I've a can kit sitting with my brewing stock that's a year out of date now)
 
Did you buy the false bottom?

If not, consider it for a future purchase as it has made a decent difference to clarity for me.

You won't regret it btw and you'll never go back to can kits (I've a can kit sitting with my brewing stock that's a year out of date now)

ive only ever done one kit, wasnt impressed, i have a 18ltr pan ive been using but again its a lot of work, and the larger the brew the longer it takes, ie heat up and cool down. i was just looking at the cooler but at that price i can do a proper size brew,
didnt get the false bottom as it was from a different site and postage ups the cost,but i will do,
i did by the strainer though,, would i benefit from both?
 
ive only ever done one kit, wasnt impressed, i have a 18ltr pan ive been using but again its a lot of work, and the larger the brew the longer it takes, ie heat up and cool down. i was just looking at the cooler but at that price i can do a proper size brew,
didnt get the false bottom as it was from a different site and postage ups the cost,but i will do,
i did by the strainer though,, would i benefit from both?

I've never used a hop strainer but I think it would help. The important thing is to let the hops boil freely so its a catch 22. The false bottom really made a difference for me so now you own the boiler I'd strongly consider it.

No turning back and welcome to Clibit's Dark Side.
 
ive only ever done one kit, wasnt impressed, i have a 18ltr pan ive been using but again its a lot of work, and the larger the brew the longer it takes, ie heat up and cool down. i was just looking at the cooler but at that price i can do a proper size brew,
didnt get the false bottom as it was from a different site and postage ups the cost,but i will do,
i did by the strainer though,, would i benefit from both?

I just use the push in hop strainer (no false bottom) and get very clear beer after 2 weeks in the bottle.

Tips to help getting clear beer:
1. add a teaspoon of irish moss (or half a protofloc tablet) 10 mins from the end of the boil.
2. Chilling quickly I think helps (rather than no chill overnight etc)
3. Leave the boiler to sit for 10 mins after chilling before emptying into the FV, lets the hops etc all drift to the bottom acting as a natural sieve for the wort as it travels into the hop strainer/tap on its way out of the tap/boiler.
4. Leave your wort fermenting for at least 2 weeks in the FV before bottling (dont be tempted to bottle too early).

I've never used finings, did try chilling the wort (lower than 21°C) before bottling but found I got flattish beer, I guess from too little yeast being left in the bottle to carb up so don't do that anymore.

Hope this helps, good luck with your first brew in your new boiler !
 

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