Ace, Klarstein, BrewMonk BrewDevil adding a Heating Element

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

The Baron

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
Messages
8,326
Reaction score
4,808
Location
castleford
Hi My Ace 35l has finally given up( well over 5+ years) in mid brew luckily I have a old Peco boiler that I used to finish the brew.
I have done a continuity test on the bonded elements and surprisingly the larger one still tests but the smaller one must have failed as the continuity test is negative also it has burnt off the power connection on the PCB board but the rest of it still works i.e the temp probe and the pump.
My thoughts are to put in a heating element like the Peco has that is 2.4kw and use the machine manually as the temp probe is reading OK and I can use the pump to re-circulate so it is just the programmability if that is a word I have lost.
So has anybody done this before and where did you get a kettle element with a appropriate lead of the correct ampage so as it does not melt. I have seen them at Angel brew and Geterbrewed but they are wanting £30 inc postage which to me seems a little steep for what was a few years ago available in many outlets when a lot of us had Peco's reasonably cheap(Yorkshireman)
I am not in a rush to buy a new unit so it is just a bridging gap so if anybody has any other idea's mods etc I am open to suggestions
 
You will have to pay, but you can get a replacement unit only. Magical pancake has a video of replacing his. That’s the problem with the units with the elements cemented in they will eventually burn out.
 
Can you still set temp ie for mashing, if so is there a way to disconnect the small element and just use the 1900w one or will it not boil on that alone
Its also burnt the heating connection to the PCB board as well Rod so it would need a new board. I will probably just put in a Peco style element and run the mash manually apart from that I will be able to just let it boil and the re-circ pump still works.
I can get a element and cable for £30 delivered approx so it will put me on for a while and also i have my old Peco as back up.
I will buy another eventually probably the same as I got over 5 years out of it and knew it would go at some time so not too disappointed.
I can then use it as a backup
 
You will have to pay, but you can get a replacement unit only. Magical pancake has a video of replacing his. That’s the problem with the units with the elements cemented in they will eventually burn out.
Yeah knew it would happen at some time but it was £280 when i bought it and have done over 250 brews in it so I think it has been pretty good and I would buy another but I will adapt this so i can use it and when i get a new one use it as a back up
Edit do you know where I could get a bottom for it and does it come withe PCB board.
I know you will know Foxy if anybody does
 
Yeah knew it would happen at some time but it was £280 when i bought it and have done over 250 brews in it so I think it has been pretty good and I would buy another but I will adapt this so i can use it and when i get a new one use it as a back up
Edit do you know where I could get a bottom for it and does it come withe PCB board.
I know you will know Foxy if anybody does
It comes as a complete body with the elements. Then you just have to move everything over. I don’t know about the UK but when selling goods in Australia the company importing the goods is required by law to carry all the spare parts. So whoever is retailing them should be able to get you a spare. Pity its still not under warranty.
 
Last edited:
Here is the video. Would be cheap leaving the factory but buying one from the middle man may push the price up a fair bit.
Here is an email address you may be able to get more info on where to get a new body, if Sandy is still there she is very helpful.
Sandy丨GutenKitchenEquip <[email protected]>

 
I gave up on electric brewing when my second boiler had the element go. Both lasted under 100 brews each and were unfixable according to next door who used to have an electrical business. The elements curved round the outside. Saucepans are not so high maintenance mines lasted yonks now but I agree you can't programme them.
 
I gave up on electric brewing when my second boiler had the element go. Both lasted under 100 brews each and were unfixable according to next door who used to have an electrical business. The elements curved round the outside. Saucepans are not so high maintenance mines lasted yonks now but I agree you can't programme them.
We live in a different age now, buildings are built to last around 30 years, obsolescence architecture. Not much difference to manufactured goods. Buildings, as are goods manufactured to a certain life span, why it keeps up with technology and keeps industry ticking over. Where would we be if all consumables lasted forever? We have to keep the money moving and people in work.
Baron is lucky, he got a couple of extra years use out of his unit. I am on my third in six years, to be clear the cockroach incident only destroyed the board, not anything else.
 
I got over 5 years out of my unit and 250 plus brews so quite pleased as when I bought it I knew the situation and for me it has done well. I do not know if this helped to extend the life but I was told to not use it on full power as that is what shortens the life of the elements, which I have done.
My next one will be probably the same as I am not willing to spend over double the amount plus to get a non-bonded element model with replaceable elements.
I think I will buy the same machine again as it served me well and add a Peco style element to the damaged one for back up as I said i will be able to do the boil/pump and re-circulate ok but the mash will have to be done ala BIAB style but this will just be a back up anyway
 
Well I have given the unit a once over and the heating attachment on the PCB has burned the board but only in that place so the rest is ok.
I was going to attach a new connector and disconnect the single lower heating element of 700w and just leave the 1800W one which hopefully would have worked but be very slow and it would be a slow boil.
Everything else works the pump, heat sensor and the digital facia so I have ordered a 2.4w Peco heater and hot lead so it will need a 40mm hole drilling and fitting.
This will enable me to do a manual mash using the metal mash bin(with the pump re-circulation) and a full boil.
This is only a put on until I eventually order a new system which will leave me with a back up system so if this works and I am sure it will it has cost me £32 rather than throwing the system in the bin.
 
Back
Top