Robobrew water volumes

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Hi All,

I did an all grain beginners class and we used Braumeisters 20's, I've now got a Robobrew V3.1 and a IPA recipe pack from the same place I did the class the instructions are as follows will the water volumes work with a Robobrew also do I need use campden tabs.

Treat mash water with 20ml AMS

Mash at 66°C for 40 mins in 23L Water

Sparge with 9.5 L water

Boil for 60 mins.

23 L in the fermenter.

TIA,
London.
 
Last edited:
How you treat your mash water, depends on your starting pH and desired pH. 20ml of AMS without knowing your water profile is completely arbitrary.

Mash for an hour minimum, you'll get better efficiency.

Regarding your water volumes, I wouldn't go down the route you've suggested. Instead 18-20L strike water (mash) every time, it's personal preference really - I rock 19L. Sparge to 28L preboil taking into account grain absorption at ~1L/kg. Boil for an hour, then you'll have 23L into the fermenter or damn near it. Boil off rates vary marginally, but are usually around 4L/hr @ 1900W.

So to calculate your sparge amount, using 5kg pale malt in a 20L mash as an example.

20L - 5L = 15L (that's what's left when you remove the grains).
28L - 15L = 13L (this is your sparge amount to make 28L preboil).
28L - 4L = 24L (this is your post boil volume after loosing 4L to evaporation).

The last litre is lost to cooling shrinkage. It's not actually lost, but would appear that way if you were to go by graduation markings on the kettle. This is around 4% from boiling to yeast pitching temp.

24L x0.96 = 23.04L

That's the full breakdown, but basically all you have to remember is that: Sparge volume = 28 - (mash volume - grain weight).
 
Thanks Ghillie,
that's a great explanation and gives me all I need to know for my first all grain brew day, the place I did the class is about 2 miles from me so the tap water profile is the same, they had a water profile test done so that why they use the AMS, I may not as I don't have any. Do I needs to use half a campden tablet.

London.
 
I would use half a campden in your strike water, I use exactly the same as Ghillie 19ltr to mash and sparge to 28ltr to boil off and get 23ltr on a 6o min boil. I boil for 45 mins now and just reduce the sparge slightly for the 15mins less boil nowadays
 
Thanks Ghillie,
that's a great explanation and gives me all I need to know for my first all grain brew day, the place I did the class is about 2 miles from me so the tap water profile is the same, they had a water profile test done so that why they use the AMS, I may not as I don't have any. Do I needs to use half a campden tablet.

London.
That’s handy you’re on the same water supply then, nice one.

I wouldn’t have thought Camden tablets were necessary unless you have high levels of chlorine in your water. The place you did the course will be able to tell you if there is or isn’t.

It would also be a good idea to get the full water profile from them too as water chemistry is good fun with home brewing and can make quite a noticeable difference to the end product.
 
Chlorine leaves our treatment works at less than one milligram per litre (one part per million), the level recommended by the World Health Organisation.
From Thames Water, I don't know if this is high.

London.
 
Chlorine leaves our treatment works at less than one milligram per litre (one part per million), the level recommended by the World Health Organisation.
From Thames Water, I don't know if this is high.

London.
No idea bud, very lucky with my water so haven't ever given it consideration.

If we exclude the chlorine removal element, camden tablets appear to be more tailored for wine/cider making because of other benefits they offer. These aren't applicable to beer brewing.

If your water tastes like a swimming pool, then use them. If you're happy with how it tastes out the tap then I wouldn't bother.
 
TBH I started using camden tablets after doing Ditch's stout he uses them, I've got a filter on my shower so maybe I'll use water from there.

London.
 
TBH I started using camden tablets after doing Ditch's stout he uses them, I've got a filter on my shower so maybe I'll use water from there.

London.
If they used them on the course then why not. Ultimately, the only way to decide if they're necessary is by comparing the same brew with and without.

By the way, you'll find your feet soon, but only after tripping over many other "bumps in the road". Try not to over think things for your maiden solo brew and just enjoy itathumb..
 
Thanks for your time Ghillie. I'll brew without camden tablets or AMS and see how it turns out.

London.
I'd stick with the AMS, as it adjusts your mash pH for optimal conversion of starches. This doesn't technically improve the flavour, but should give you better efficiency.

Good luck!
 
I'll order some AMS, should I use the same amount with the reduced strike volume.

London.
I'd opt for less; just work it out as a rough fraction. i.e. 20L mash would be 20/23 x 20ml = 17.4ml. Splitting hairs really.
 
I did my first brew with the Robobrew on Saturday and used your water volumes, Strike 20l, sparge 13l and ended up with 23l in the fermenter which is bubbling away nicely so now I just have to wait. I used an English IPA recipe pack from the place I did the course which cost £15 with no postage as I picked it up from them. Thanks again Ghillie.

London.
 
It's weird, I seem to get a much lower boil off than most experience with the robobrew, mine is about 1.5l over an hour. The boil is vigorous.
 
Looking at my profile I have it set for 2l boil off per hour.

I strike in with 19l and sparge about 13l

Boil volume is 27.68l
Post boil 25.68l
Loss to trub 2.65
Into fermenter 22l

My numbers have been all over the place recently so I think I'll have to do a simple brew and double check everything.
 
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