rust in my new boiler

[loady]

I used an m20 washer either side of my shiny pot to strengthen it, after only 2 test boils the washer has rusted, it looked like stainless steel but turns out it is galvanised steel or zinc plated, I also used cold steel (a putty like jbweld) to fix it on and seal it, what's the likely hood of getting this of now ?, if I can't then I will have to use that pot a the hlt.

 

[31bb3]

I'm not sure how it will come off but it may require some brute force

 

[Fil]

bad luck!! both the solutions that i think would work are risky

you may get lucky with a controlled tap with a big hammer onto a well positioned cold chissel and shear it off? any residual epoy/putty should sand off eventually.
But the risk of a dent crease or worse holled pot are evident,


skilled use of an angle grinder would also work but again this has risks of rust enabeling the pot with iron contamination off the grinding wheel at best, cutting a hole in the pot at worst if you slip..

then there is the option of leaving it in and coating it so its not a problem.. vaseline could work? or something like lsx silicone which is food and heat safe? or just more of the putty you have used already?

Could you electroplate it?? i think all u might need would be a copper salt copper wire and a small battery??
attach your steel washer to the -ve copper wire to the +ive submerge the washer in copper salt solution and drop in the +ve electrode (wire)
but its almost 40yrs since i fell asleep at school so id check on the viability of that first.

 

[loady]

Hmmm..... Some good suggestions, the only problem is that the ball valve is on and the straight nipple is through the washer connecting everything, I unscrewed the 1/2" to 15mm fitting with a bit of brute force but the rest seems stuck fast....I can live with it, would a bit of corroding sind the washer inside the hlt be a major problem for boiled water ?...I'm worried however that the rust is going to cause the properties of the stainless steel to fail :nah:

 

[Fil]

Hmmm..... Some good suggestions, the only problem is that the ball valve is on and the straight nipple is through the washer connecting everything, I unscrewed the 1/2" to 15mm fitting with a bit of brute force but the rest seems stuck fast....I can live with it, would a bit of corroding sind the washer inside the hlt be a major problem for boiled water ?...I'm worried however that the rust is going to cause the properties of the stainless steel to fail :nah:

Its not ideal but livable with as you say.. afaik for the rust to effect the SS i think it needs to have been heated, tooled with steel or iron or be in contact with it. your steel washer sounds like its isolated by the epoxy puty, so could well be fine.

drying well cleaning off and coating/sealing it from water should protect it ok. id go with vaseline for ease of use, clean it off and apply a fresh wipe over at the start of the brewday, that should protect it till next brewday, when you can clean it off with any debris thats stuck to it and apply a fresh smear.. avoid any veggi oils as they could kill your beers head before you start

im pretty sure a little iron oxide isnt bad for you to drink, if it was im sure we would all know.. how it effects yeast, the mash and beer ?? or any water treatment chemicals you could use i dont know.

 

[Vossy1]

Are you sure it's not stainless ? Stainless can rust if it's scratched and not allowed to cure/oxidise before immersion in water/exposure to moisture in the air. If unsure, scour the area clean/to bare metal with a scouring pad, than allow to dry for at least 24 hours, if not 48 before next use.
If you have access to welding gear as it's quite possible to crack the join between metal and putty, but it'll take some heat and brute force! If you didn't key the area before application of the putty it may actually be a lot easier.

 

[rickardbriggs]

Boilers produce hot water or steam for heating businesses and homes. The steam or water is distributed through a system of pipes for radiant heating. To heat the water, boilers use heat combustion from burning wood, oil, coal, or gas.

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[Vossy1]

And the point is :wha:

 

[Mark1964]

seems a pointless post really

 

[oz11]

Hmm... imminent incoming spam, perhaps? :wha:

 

[Vossy1]

We agree Oz :thumb:

 

[oz11]

I'm sure the new mods are waiting poised and ready to strike... :hat:

 

[wezil]

Hi an ordinary blowlamp should provide the 600c heat you need to soften the putty, or try squeezing it with a big pair of pliers (waterpump type). Or even drill lots of holes and use these to chip bits off. Also screwfix do a large range of stainless fittings in two grades depending on usage. Good luck!

 

[Sean_Mc]

THIS WON'T HELP......sorry I'll get me coat

 

[loady]

Boilers produce hot water or steam for heating businesses and homes. The steam or water is distributed through a system of pipes for radiant heating. To heat the water, boilers use heat combustion from burning wood, oil, coal, or gas.

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WTF ? :shock: That was about as much use as a catflap on a submarine

THIS WON'T HELP......sorry I'll get me coat

Funny guy :clap: (see catflap/submarine above) :party:

Are you sure it's not stainless ? Stainless can rust if it's scratched and not allowed to cure/oxidise before immersion in water/exposure to moisture in the air. If unsure, scour the area clean/to bare metal with a scouring pad, than allow to dry for at least 24 hours, if not 48 before next use.
If you have access to welding gear as it's quite possible to crack the join between metal and putty, but it'll take some heat and brute force! If you didn't key the area before application of the putty it may actually be a lot easier.

I know now its not stainless, its zinc coated, i am going to get some pics up in the morning so would be pleased if you could look in again when i have done them, vossy..i followed your guide to fit the 3 peice ballvalve, your right, the putty i used made a good seal !!..not sure if its stronger or weaker than JB weld, the problem i think with trying to smack it off with a cold chisel is that the brass nipple is all the way through and then putty applied to pot facing side of washer then the connector on inside afixed and tightened..im thinking maybe its better to somehow grip the ball valve from outside of pot and try to turn it, i might get more leverage on that ? i could even fasion a sort of brake bar to screw in the other end but i am worried of tearing a hole into it..whats the likelyhood of that ?..maybe a swift sharp jolt when i do it with a bit of heat as well...i have stainless steel washers coming tomorow...i have another boiler in the making which i could use for boiling the wort..so if the slight rust isnt an issue i could use this one as the HLT...im not sure if i am going to be able to coat it anyway as the other poster suggested.

 

[Sean_Mc]

:grin:

 

[loady]

Thanks for the tips all...the heat done the trick, though i also think that the 'cold steel' putty i bought was a little old.

From left to right... the zinc plated washer which i thought was stainless as it looks new..next the same washer after two test boils and oxidisation..and lastly the new stainless steel washer, it is an M20 the same as the others but it is 'form c' so has a larger OD which helps to stiffen a little more.. i got some really well shaped silicone washers that were scavenged from some sink traps..might give them a test run before i comit to 'cold steel' again, though i am concerned it will defeat the object of stiffening.

 

[Fil]

Glad to see its off.. nasty thing, tho easy mistake to make lookin at em

when sealing up theres no such thing as too much ptfe tape especially when it comes to SS that needs lining up.

if having problems sealing anything i first reach for silicone baking sheet to cut custom washers from.

soft/elastic to squash to almost any shape, both food and heat safe.

on the one occasion i still struggled to get a seal lsx thread sealer a toothpaste tube of silicone to smear over the threads and mating surfaces, and starts to cure with contact with water solved the problem, when cured its safe with hot , cold and potable water supplies.

 

[loady]

I found some silicone washers that were scrounged from a plumbers merchant, the looked ideal, quite thick...i put them on but i think i overtightened them to get a good contact on the stiffening washers either side of the pot skin..i done a test boil and had no leaks but when i went to empty it the ball valve span round in my hand, the washer had extruded quite a bit where i tightened it and the remainder was like cling film !..back to cold steel putty me thinks

 

[RobertP]

Boilers produce hot water or steam for heating businesses and homes. The steam or water is distributed through a system of pipes for radiant heating. To heat the water, boilers use heat combustion from burning wood, oil, coal, or gas.

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