Sparging question.

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

luke976

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Bewdley, Worcestershire
Evening all,

Sorry if this question has already been answered here on the forum.

I am about to have a go at my first all grain brew in the next week or so. I have a coolbox converted into a mash tun. My question is do I batch sparge or sparge the "proper" way?

By batch sparging I mean running off the wort completely then putting the rest of the liquor into the tun, mix it up and leave it again. I have seen a few videos on youtube of people doing it this way. As it's my first AG brew I am tempted to try this way for ease really. But I have also read that this way of sparging can produce off flavours in the brew? :nono:

If any AG brewers on here could help me it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Luke
 
Well, I'm partial to batch sparging because I find it easier...for me. I watched a mate fly sparge and I almost didn't go AG. Looked too complicated. There are plenty on here who do it and it works a treat for them. I think you have to decide for yourself which method you want to use. Go watch somebody do it both ways and see which clicks for you!

Baz
 
I used to fly sparge but now I batch sparge.
I find batch sparging much quicker :)
 
I batch sparge and have yet to encounter a problem with off flavours. I understand that fly sparging is more efficient but unless you're doing huge brews then I'm not sure if the payoff/effort ratio is going to be worth it.
 
I fly sparge and yes it is more effort. I takes about an hour to fly sparge 55l which can be a PITA as you can't leave it alone I always have to watch it and empty buckets of wort as I have no pump. Never have a problem though.
 
I fly sparge but I don't think it really matters which way you do it.

Personally I am not too worried about what efficiency I am getting, grain isn't exactly expensive.

As long as you know what your method gives you then you can base future recipes on that knowledge. You won't know your efficiency until you've done a few brews, but assume 70% as a ballpark for your first effort.

I fly sparge on a 50 Litre brew length, it takes me 20 minutes and I usually get between 75% and 80% efficiency. I find it easier, I just connect up the sparging arm to the HLT and turn the tap on. I turn on the tap to drain the Mash Tun at the same time and turn on the pump to pump the wort into the boiler.

Then I spend the next 20 minutes preparing the hops and other additions ready for the boil.
 
1. Add strike water at proper temp to mash tun.
2. Stir in grain until well mixed.
3. Mash for 60-90 mins.
4. Drain first runnings into boil kettle (I recirculate the wort to clear it)
5. Add sparge water to tun and mix well.
6. Drain second runnings into kettle (recirculate here too)

That's it!
 
thanks Barry a couple of questions
1 do you use the same amount of liquor as the recipe or your calculations say
2 what happens if you dont get the right gravity pre boil. Ie when we fly sparge we usually stop near 1.000 or below
 
I have software that helps me calculate the required strike and sparge water based on a few variables.

You have to use your system a few times in order to know what efficiency you get. I get right around 80% efficiency with mine. So I calculate my recipes for 80%. If anything, I end up higher rather than lower and that's usually because I boil too long and concentrate the wort more. I don't even take a hydro reading until I'm done with the boil and have cooled the wort.
 
wendy1971 said:
when we fly sparge we usually stop near 1.000 or below

You should stop fly sparging once your runnings are 1.010 or below otherwise you will start extracting the tannins? from the grain.

Something like that anyway, I'm sure I've read it somewhere that you should sparge beyond 1.010.
 
Runwell-Steve said:
I'm sure I've read it somewhere that you should sparge beyond 1.010.
Gravity corrected for temperature. . . . IIRC 1.010 at 20C is something like 0.996 at 68-70C . . . but I don't have to use that with the refractometer so I've sort of forgotten the conversion factors
 
I was having the same sparging dilemma until a couple of days ago. I found this link very useful, in fact the guy has stacks of useful videos on YouTube (Bobby from NJ):

http://www.suebob.com/index.php?option= ... &Itemid=66

Scroll down far enough (or just read it all) and you will eventually come to a detailed section on sparging techniques. He uses a No Mash Out Double Batch Sparge technique and claims a very healthy efficiency rate, as you will see.

I now fully intend to use this method.
 
Back
Top