Tap extenders

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This polystyrene is just common crumbly white polystyrene. .. is not that stuff you find in King span so I am not going to be able to stick anything to the polystyrene. .. still curious if the mdf is going to offer the same insulation value or whether it will just let in the ambient heat outside.
 
I'm with you now. I was thinking the door was thicker. I think Fils idea of the bush is going to be the easiest and cheapest. To firm things up on the outside you could also put a larger SS washer, or screw/glue a SS plate on the outside of the fridge. You could make it big enough to screw on a drip tray. So a piece 6" x 12" ish would look good.

 
the problem i see i am going to have with the bushes is that there is little flange on them, wouldnt be so bad if they were made in the round but they are hexagon :? i really think the MDF route is going to be the best way to go..just hope it insulates as well as the poly panel does ?? though i may just stick it to the inside of the MDF
 
when suggesting epoxy i was thinking of anchoring against the outer perspex sandwich sheets with a socket for stability not the polycrumble ;)

i think the problem with using mdf will be weight and moisture if using i would give a few good coats of spirit based undercoat before sealing with either exterior gloss or internal bathroom or kitchen paint with a good dollop of pva added.
a few £shop space blankets stappled to the inside forming layers should give good thin insulation.
 
i see...the glue is not the strongest and over time i think it will come away (the plastic from the polystyrene that is)

Im looking again at your reducing bush theory...if an m20 washer fits very niceley over the thread of the tap then its 3/4" bsp ? so therefore this 12 x3/4" bush may do the trick with a form C m24 washer to go over the bush ? not sure if M24 will fit over 1" bsp :hmm:

Hey..what about exterior plyboard at 25mm ??
 
dont think SS is the metal to use, brass is softer and will allow u to line the tap up easy,,
with SS there is no give so providing that extra oomph to line it up perfectly will just lock it up.

http://mdmetric.com/tech/thddat7.htm
says the Major OD of a 3/4" bsp thread is 26.44mm so a m26 washer should do the job, afaik form has more to do with thickness and edge finishing so any form should do.
 
I have this and looks like it will do the job, i do need it a slight bit longer but not sure if the differing sizes are the female thread size or barrel length..the one i have now works perfectly with a couple of m20 washers, a rubber m20 washer to stop it rotating and a flange nut on the male thread..its really quite rigid with only finger tightening...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WHOLESALE...mbing_MJ&var=570178225170&hash=item3f2846fdc5

$T2eC16h,!)kE9s4,Bu0EBSDOwbCB!Q~~60_12.JPG
 
pretty sure the mm is the length as its an extending socket so the m and F threads should be the same size.. and in MM a 1/2" thread is closer to 19mm diameter..
 
Got a feeling my tap is 3/4"... is the same as my dalex tap. .. is that correct?
 
Yep.. asked the plumb merchant. Can't get my head round why it measures 3/4" in diameter almost and it's called 1/2" :wha:
 
loady said:
Yep.. asked the plumb merchant. Can't get my head round why it measures 3/4" in diameter almost and it's called 1/2" :wha:

the bsp measurement is based on the bore of a steel tube afaik, wikipedia can explain it better than me... my first encounter with the issue ended with an embarrassing phone call when i rang to complain i had been sent the wrong bit.. :oops: the lass on the other end had no doubt spoken to 100's of similar fools as she had a polite and succinct explanation off to pat...
 

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