bending 10mm ss tube

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PhatFil

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I have a length of 10mm SS i want to bend. The small pipe bending tools i have seen with 10mm forms do not list SS as a material they can bend, the larger tools dont have 10mm forms.

is there something specific i should lookfor?

tia
 
It's very hard to bend ss pipe easily and it will probably break most pipe benders where it's not listed. The main 'issue' with bending ss pipe is flattening of the wall.
What wall thickness is the pipe you've got?
 
its 10mm x1mm, it has "HEAT : TGB090237" marked on it, but its faint and i may have mis read?
 
If you can fill it with water and plug the ends with plastic or tape, wait untill you get a hard frost and wrap it around something of the right diameter. If you cant find a bender this may be an option. Better still if you have a giant freezer.
 
OK thanks for the info, so bending this pipe is off the agenda for now, or until i meet a chap down the pub with just the right kit...
 
I'm sure there was a forum member who posted not so long ago that he had the facilities to make the stainless product coils...worth a search, perhaps he could help.
 
Vossy1 said:
I'm sure there was a forum member who posted not so long ago that he had the facilities to make the stainless product coils...worth a search, perhaps he could help.

thanx will try a search on ss n coil...

Found it, but the chap is in the US.. cost prohibitive...

I treated myself to a bit of SS brewing kit, a racking cane.... its about as much use as a chocolate t-pot, a single bend in the top would improve its functionality making it usable. currently as soon as you let go of the cane the top heavy and hidden below opaque wort trub avoiding end just twists round n falls into the sediment. and because of the up facing open end at the top the attached syphon tube bends creating a break point for co2 to escape from the wort which slows n prematurly stops the syphon.. aarrgggghhh

a u bend at the top would allow positioning and holding in position of the cane and would also avoid the co2 break point created by a plastic tube collapsing on itself.. currently its a "J" modding it to emulate an old glass "S" racking tube would make it usable..
 
As the tube is marked with a heat number you can pretty much guarantee that its seamless annealed (soft) tube from a pharmaceutical or semiconductor job somewhere. It's a bugger to bend without the right formers and my swagelok ones use for work cost over £300! I wouldn't bother with cheaper plumbers/DIY ones as the formers are of poor quality and will deform the tube.

Do you want to put bends in it or form a coil? if you want to make a coil you would be able to 'pull' it round a piece of heavy pipe with a reasonable result but remember stainless has a high amount of 'springbuck' so for example, if you pull it round a 2" pipe you will probably end up with a 21/2" coil. It all comes down to experience and a bit of trial and error I'm afraid.

If you let me know what it is you're after doing I might be able to help out. I've normally got 10mm kicking around the shop

Russ
 
All metals have heat numbers so that they can be traced back to the manufacturer for the material certification. The heat number does tell you what the material is if you can find out the manufacturer but it does not tell you by looking at it what type of material it is. This is normally printed next to the heat number such as 316/316L.
 
cheers wiltshireborn, i just want to put a small radius 180 degree or u bend in the top 4-5 inches of the tube, it already has a 135 or similar bend at the other end. its a racking cane, a "J", i want to make it into an "S" both bends in the same plane tho in opposite directions.

the smaller ubend at the top will do 2 things,

firstly give a good indication of the bottom bends orientation under murky wort allowing the open end to be held above the sediment n trub, it was sold as a winemaking tool.. wine is more transparrent allowing you too see the canes orientation below the liquid level?

and secondly stop the plastic tube attached to syphon collapsing on itself when forced to bend over 180degrees creating a breaking point for co2 release during the syphoning witch inevitably breaks the syphon effect.

cheers shrek, i dont think i need to know just how hard the steel is i already know its too hard for me to bend neatly enough..

So I think the only realistic solution to me is to find a ubend to attach to the top of the tube, Im just glad i asked before heading straight out n buying a didy cast ally tool that will give after just taking the straight edge off the tube.. a copper yorkshire fit 10mm ubend n foodsafe silicone perhaps.. and if that dont exist. i know i can get 10mm compression 90 degree bends, so 2 of them will work, not as neat or pleasing to the eye,, but im sure it will be functional.
 
Depending on how hard the tube is it might not be possible for the compression fittings to crimp onto the tube. They are designed for copper and not stainless which is a lot harder than copper. Maybe some pushfit connections?
 
Phatfil

If I get the chance this week I'll pull u a 180 bend and dig out a Swagelok connector. This'll do the trick and look better than a couple of 90's

Will all fit in a jiffy bag so will post it to you if u want
 
just proves im in over my head, when i first saw swaglock in your posts i thought it were another anachronism tor the good lady.. ha.. thank goodness for google..

That would be fantastic wiltshireborn, and i will gladly reimburse any costs materials, postage, etc.. i will pm you my email addy..

then on my next brew from my all plastic brewery set up i can at least decant my wort with a bit of shiney SS successfully..
 
I bought a length of 3m, 10mm, OD 1mm wall thickness SS pipe from BES that came in an impressive 3m long box!

I lay it on the floor with one end of it strapped to a cornie keg and rolled the keg along the garden! Hey presto, one coiled pipe for counter-flow chiller purposes!

Steve
 

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