BIAB question

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Templar

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Me and my Brewing mates are thinking of switching to BIAB over winter, and we're in the process of looking at pots to convert. I'm thinking electric element in a cool box will be best - am I right in thinking this is possible? I think I read it on here somewhere.

Anyway, assuming it is (I may be looking like a bit of an **** right now if it isn't...) would this be suitable?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Holiday-L ... 1c3584df62

It has a side drain built in, it's large enough and with the lid on should preserve a lot of heat, saving on the electric bills (which have just gone up of course! :x ).

Next question, will 2 kettle elements be enough? I've been looking for cheapo kettles, and they are cheap, but they are all cordless these days. Isn't that a pain in the bum to wire? What about the problems with cutting through the side of the box? Is there some way you can just drop the element in?

Sorry to ask such a random bunch of questions - we started brewing to make cheap beer, and buying this load of kit to (potentially) cut it to bits and ruin it isn't a cheap way of doing things!!

Thanks!
 
not heard of a BIAB using a cooler box normally a plastic barrel, pot or tea urn

it might be better getting a 40 litre buffalo boiler you can pick them up pretty cheap second hand on ebay think i paid around £50 for mine
 
I could have sworn I saw a picture here of a cool box someone turned into a boiler! Must be going mad!

I'll look into tea urns - they're probably a better bet anyway...
 
I'm aiming for no more than 23 litres per batch, but the problem we have is that my mate's wife (We use his place as he has more space) is likely to throw a fit at us boiling the wort in the kitchen, because of the smell. You and I know it is a lovely smell, but sadly she remains firmly in disagreement on that subject. As such we will have to boil outside, and I was expecting to have efficiency problems with gas (losing loads of heat from the flame every time there is a breeze), which is why we were thinking of a cool box with an electric element in it.

That being said, the Burco idea is a good one - my mate has talked about using thermal wrap for an exhaust (he's a mechanic) to insulate it, and make it more efficient. It also means we wouldn't have to drill holes in it to drain it or to fit an element.
 
if you look closely ,
you can see the steel shroud around the burner,
when its really breezey i put some boards up ahainst the pot... :thumb:

i can assure you... boiling for 1.5 hrs will not do a kitchen any favours... :nono:
 
artyb said:
if you look closely ,
you can see the steel shroud around the burner,
when its really breezey i put some boards up ahainst the pot... :thumb:

i can assure you... boiling for 1.5 hrs will not do a kitchen any favours... :nono:
What will happen after multiple boils in a kitchen for 90 mins at a time? :whistle:

I've done 4 boils so far and always put my electrim boiler under the extractor fan that sits over the hob... :hmm:
 
If you have cheap mdf veneer covered cupboards (like I do) the veneer may start to peel..... Haha :doh:
 
With the likes of Maris Otter and other common ,malts you are likely to use, you can boil with the lid on. I won't go into the technical side but I have always boiled lid on and the beer is great. You will save the majority of the steam and some of the smells.
 
crE said:
Really? :nah:

The likelihood of producing enough DMS to pass the taste threshold with Maris Otter is very unlikely especially with the grain quantities we are talking about.
 
Thinking about it. That kickstarter 'brewing appliance' boils at less than 100°c as it is under pressure so you would have thought that if DMS was a problem it would have been noticed here.

I would add DMS to the list of things that people mention that 'could' occur but fail to mention that the probability is less than winning the lottery.

Hot side aeration :whistle:
 
crE said:
Great news!

So essentially you could use less water to sparge as you're not having any boil off? :hmm:
I start with 25l of water for a BIAB brew and end up with 20l in the FV. Though I really am very naughty :tongue: I commit one of the many BIAB sins and have started reserving some water to do a mini sparge. It has increased efficiency by over 5%. Then I tip the wort through my voile hop filter causing the other problem of myth and legend, hot side aeration. :evil: Still, I would defend my actions. They're well researched, having brewed for 30 years (though not continuously, I admit), rather than something I read on a crisp packet.
 
anthonyUK said:
Thinking about it. That kickstarter 'brewing appliance' boils at less than 100°c as it is under pressure so you would have thought that if DMS was a problem it would have been noticed here.
Under pressure water boils at over 100C - that's how a pressure cooker works. At lower pressure water boils at a lower temperature. That's why tea tastes rubbish at altitude.
 
Duxuk said:
crE said:
Great news!

So essentially you could use less water to sparge as you're not having any boil off? :hmm:
I start with 25l of water for a BIAB brew and end up with 20l in the FV. Though I really am very naughty :tongue: I commit one of the many BIAB sins and have started reserving some water to do a mini sparge. It has increased efficiency by over 5%.

Nothing wrong in that - its just a mini-maxi-BIAB... or something...

Duxuk said:
Then I tip the wort through my voile hop filter causing the other problem of myth and legend, hot side aeration. :evil: Still, I would defend my actions. They're well researched, having brewed for 30 years (though not continuously, I admit), rather than something I read on a crisp packet.

Again, not much of a problem (or so I read) if your beer is drunk reasonably soon and you're not keeping it for years.
 
rpt said:
anthonyUK said:
Thinking about it. That kickstarter 'brewing appliance' boils at less than 100°c as it is under pressure so you would have thought that if DMS was a problem it would have been noticed here.
Under pressure water boils at over 100C - that's how a pressure cooker works. At lower pressure water boils at a lower temperature. That's why tea tastes rubbish at altitude.

I just checked and it doesn't work like I thought at all but you are right about the pressure thing :oops:
They just don't let the water get to boiling point.
 

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