Brewing with 2 GrainFather G30’s-How Would you use them?

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32a is a ring main breaker (cut out) rating.

Local conditions will affect the real world performance of any circuit, including but not limited to: grid connection, age (installation & mental), ambient temp, connectors, lengths, tails, other load, choice of load, breaker types etc etc

One size does not fit all.

That said I was surprised to learn the GF was only 2000w. So technically you could risk it. I personally would'nt.
Thanks Mashbag. So what is the max load you'd recommend for a ring? (Given I've happily had a kettle and other things on the same ring at the same time)
 
Just to add as Mashbag has implied the cable length and buried in plaster conduit reduce their potential so any 32amp ring is less in real terms and can be quite a bit less with long runs of cable buries in plaster and age depreciation.
Ps no Electrical expert just some knowledge pick up over the years if it's correct
 
(sorry for thread hijack, but this is really informative). So what is guidance/recommendation for two high power devices in a double socket. Like, say (just as an example) two 2kW grainfathers plugged in side by side into a dual socket. I imagine the recommendation would be "use different sockets" but it's that true? If so, why? Or is each half of a dual socket the same as an independent single socket
 
Think we nee the electrical bods who got involved in the "Brewzilla dead" thread to give us better guidance, I too am interested in this as I have said with more members buying the 60l AIO's that use higher wattage heating elements
 
this said.
mash in one. tranfer to the 2nd for the boil.
switch off first, then switch on 2nd.
why not! not a sake of s&@t and giggled.
ok this ALL IN ONE BREWING SYSTEM just went to 1.5 brewing systems.
love learning, i’ve learnt loads on leccy safety.
bri
 
(sorry for thread hijack, but this is really informative). So what is guidance/recommendation for two high power devices in a double socket. Like, say (just as an example) two 2kW grainfathers plugged in side by side into a dual socket. I imagine the recommendation would be "use different sockets" but it's that true? If so, why? Or is each half of a dual socket the same as an independent single socket
never a prob m8.
this is really informative as you said.
 
without my reading glasses hope the photos come out ok.
this is the outhouse
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To wade in and give my two penneth - a 32A final ring circuit can comfortably deliver a full 32A providing it's been commissioned correctly. The breaker is there to protect the cable, so if there's any suggestion the circuit isn't rated for that load, the breaker should be de-rated.

In the UK we obsess about "ring mains" but the truth is they are a decades-old concept and are, in this day and age, pointless and potentially dangerous, especially after DIYers have got their hands on them. Some houses have them, some will have radials delivered using 4mm instead but, to the end user it's largely irrelevant; if the breaker is 32A and it's been installed by a competent individual then that's the load the circuit can take.

If a ring main is provided using 2.5mm solid-core T&E then, providing its integrity is intact, the capacity of the circuit (at a minimum, assuming the cable is buried rather than clipped directly) is roughly 40A so a 32A breaker is appropriate. This is why a final ring circuit can be potentially dangerous - because if the the ring has been broken (potentially unknowingly), it would essentially constitute two radial circuits, each with a current carrying capacity of 20A, but on a 32A breaker. This could be bad.

All of that said, I would, in my circumstance, personally have no worries about plugging in two 2kW devices into a quality double socket on a 32A final ring or radial circuit providing I was confident the electrics in the building wren't a complete shower 🙂

Edited to clarify : this is not provided as advice, it is provided as information of the regulations which is correct to the best of my knowledge and also on what I would personally be comfortable with in my setting, which is a known quantity. Others would be advised to have their installations regularly inspected professionally to ensure it is safe and compliant as a matter of course.
 
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lads i’ll admit leccy stuff changing a uk plug & knowing AC/DC means…then my lil 🧠 goes to mush!
as mentioned before like me i’ve used G30 heat up! then when mash in switch to heat HLT, not both at once.
as said ITS THE HEATING UP THAT CONCERNS ME/US.
maybe whilst the first brew is the boil, use the smaller watt element to mash in temp on 2nd g30!
by the time flame out in 1# it’ll be starge and heath up for boil in 2#
i’d be the test on small pipe work around 10-11l batches. and maybe do 30 min boil.
so i assume small volume brew won’t in each will have less load on the leccy system?
bri
 
they are a decades-old concept and are, in this day and age, pointless and potentially dangerous, especially after DIYers have got their hands on them.

Spot on. BUT I have seen soooo many horror stories I don't like the idea of saying it without seeing it. I also recall it's about 1 in 5 housefires are started by electricity.

People always assume their electrics are fine and have no way of telling what a complete shower (I like that) is. They don't & won't test it, just rely on some bloke on the Internet said it would be OK (your honour) 🤣🤣
 
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They don't & won't test it, just rely on some bloke on the Internet said it would be OK (your honour) 🤣🤣

This is why I don't offer advice, I have offered some information on the regulations (which is correct to the best of my knowledge and information) and on what I would feel comfortable doing in my setting, knowing my electrics aren't the proverbial "shower" 🙂. Of course, every house is different and it's difficult to predict what manner of madness or bodgery might have been employed to wire it. It could even be 100 year old wiring with rubber insulation, cheap aluminium wire with a lower current carrying capacity than copper or 60s wiring where the insulation has begun to produce the dreaded green goo.

All of these things will affect its capability and people should be mindful of the state of the electrical installation in their house. Like you say, getting a regular inspection (an EICR or Electrical Installation Condition Report) is a very, very good idea, a requirement in some circumstances and may even be in the conditions of the buildings insurance.

However, this is one of the reasons behind the specifications and the requirement for qualified/competent individuals to install and maintain electrical installations - to ensure it remains safe regardless of how much load gets plugged in.

I guess the takeaway and the only bit of advice should really be for everybody to ensure a competent EICR is performed regularly!
 
lads n lasses,
as i sit here with an electrician doing final solar fix, too early to hound him!
but i’ve got one o these coming the morn, maybe using one to test would help you to help me at least what a average 27l boil ramp up amps etc..
like i said my leccy knowledge is tiny.
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watching a youtube vid was my stamp tbh!
anymore info it’ll turn to info overload lol 😂
 
lads n lasses,
as i sit here with an electrician doing final solar fix, too early to hound him!
but i’ve got one o these coming the morn, maybe using one to test would help you to help me at least what a average 27l boil ramp up amps etc..
like i said my leccy knowledge is tiny.
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watching a youtube vid was my stamp tbh!
anymore info it’ll turn to info overload lol 😂

Very handy. They will also tell you how much it your beer costs. Brilliant for user with a power controller too.
 
to add to the mix looking at the possible set up from the sockets!!
the GF HLT would be spot on straight to the sockets.
but a alas both G30 haven’t got long enough leads to go straight into the sockets.
in the past i used a single extension lead! but i imagine i’ll need a proper extension to faff on with two!!
wouldn’t mind if the lead was at least 15m lol.
anyways i’ll have to buy a double socket extension as i only got the single.
this thread has defo. got me learning all about electrics and safety.
it’s all boil down to why would i use both G30’s and how.
i’m learning a lot about myself tbh!! i know my limitations & thinks the lads n lasses that know me & how my brain 🧠 works. hehe!
as you can imagine my prob with my illness i struggle with THE OBVIOUS, blinker on so to speak!
so i’m really grateful for your help n advice.
anyhoo estimated a single brewday plan for the morn or weds.
 
love the new words! SHOWER!
think it’s the new HBF saying heheh!
lads just been in talking bout the gears in the loft with the solar!
Solex of something! i’ll find it when the lad helps me with the App! god bless him! got his work cut out for him!
battery’s will be next year or when i win the lottery 🤦‍♂️🥴😂😂
 
but a alas both G30 haven’t got long enough leads to go straight into the sockets.
Depending on how much extra length you need, you could just replace the GF cable. It's a standard IEC (kettle) plug. You can just unplug the one that came with the unit, buy a longer one and plug it in (assuming you don't actually need a 15m one!)
 
Depending on how much extra length you need, you could just replace the GF cable. It's a standard IEC (kettle) plug. You can just unplug the one that came with the unit, buy a longer one and plug it in (assuming you don't actually need a 15m one!)
Mint!
What did I say about blinkers on!
Hmmm! If a normal kettle lead, ill look in my pc draw of leads, if not buy!
but me n online buying is hit and miss..just like todays wanted one!
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but my **** online buying.
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btw couldt wait for that monitor lol
brewday on!
 
Depending on how much extra length you need, you could just replace the GF cable. It's a standard IEC (kettle) plug. You can just unplug the one that came with the unit, buy a longer one and plug it in (assuming you don't actually need a 15m one!)
Better still you could just sell the one with the short cable.

Interesting electrical discussion aside. Have we established any brewday benefits to this folly 😁😁
 

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