Brewzilla dead - burnt out socket

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I went through some simplistic maths for this a while ago.

you can also just look at the power input and wort volumes if you can get figures. Just looking at the Four Priests YouTube vids, @chopps uses a max (often less, maybe under half of this value) of 4 (16 amp) elements in 7 firkins (from memory) of wort. Which is 14.7kW in 286L, or 50W/L homebrew is a single 13A element (3kW) in (typically) 30L, or 100W/L.

And that's for electric. Those on propane get MUCH higher heating
I now boil at ~75% power of the GF 2kW element, which (doing the maths right now for the first time) is 1.5kW in roughly 25L of wort, which is roughly 60W/L. It generally gets me 1.5-2L of boiloff (6-8%).
 
In the same vein, I think people get fixated on a "vigourous boil", when what you need is a "good simmer".

I have extensively tried both and it makes no difference. Partly because on another forum, people went on & on about it, so I had to prove it for myself.

Myth busted.

Edit: typo
I think I read that thread, some heat in the correspondence.
I am in agreement re the simmer is fine. Hopefully won't set off a fire with this answer.
 
I brew outside with a BZ GEN 3 in summer it's full power until boil then i knock the 900w off so 1500w, winter is a whole different game, on really cold days it's the full 2500w the difference is almost 2L more boil off
 
UK & European electricity was harmonised in 2003. In the UK electricity should be supplied @230V - 6% +10% and @ 50Hz +/-1%, and at up to 132kV +/- 6%, and over 132kV +/- 10% (Electricity Safety, Quality and Continuity Regulations 2002).

This means the domestic voltage is allowed to vary between 206.2V - 253V quite legally.

At the lower voltage, 3500W will slightly exceed 16A. At 230V the current will be just over 15A, so the plug is already close to its working limit (I'm assuming 15A was the design spec).

A large proportion of imported plugs and leads are only just up to UK/EC standards, and another proportion are not.

I worked for a company from a country I won't mention who wanted to know how to get the CE mark on their products. I told them how to submit for tests, get the results verified and submit the paperwork and wait for approval. Their response was to ask why they couldn't self certify (ie say the product matched regulations) and put the logo on the products.

Its important to note that bumps, bangs, drops and general (mis) use can, overtime, loosen contacts and increase resistance. Continued running at high loads can lead to gradual breakdown of the plastic body which will allow movement in the connector and cause high resistance. The localised high resistance causes high temperatures.

From a quick look at the pictures, I would say that the plug has just decayed over time exacerbated by slight overloading due to supply fluctuations. If the lead is OK, and the internal connectors/circuit are OK, I expect replacing the plug will suffice, especially if you've used it OK for some time. It's important you verify that the circuit is OK and not showing any signs of burning.

Unfortunately as someone alluded to earlier, the regulations can be interpreted in different ways, and if you ask an electrician about your setup you may well get a long debate about his interpretations and warnings of various disaster scenarios that will make you want to disconnect all electrical items and wear tinfoil on your head.

However, the people here

Electrics UK

Are quite friendly and you'll get mostly good advice with only the occasional disaster scenario devil's advocate post.

If it were me, as it's already on a dedicated circuit (with appropriate protection I assume) and assuming it's performed satisfactory many times, and there's no sign of over heating in the boiler internals, I'd replace the damaged socket and plug with a good quality ones of the same type and monitor for overheating.

If you're OK to replace the boiler socket yourself, you can get a lead with commando plug to C19 plug like this (just one example)
16 Amp Commando To IEC C19 Extension | DCDI

Note though, that this kind of setup is working close to its limit, so periodic inspection is important.

Long term, I'd consider wiring the boiler direct with suitable rated flex and isolator and leaving out the plugs /sockets. Or, at least, wiring the boiler to a commando plug and leaving out the C19 plug. As per Tim's pictures.
Thanks for the detailed reply.

I did manage to change to socket - its relatively straight forward once you work out how its held in place - and it now comes on with no crackling or melting of anything. Unfortunately it immediately complains about a temperature sensor overload so it look like the damage extends beyond the socket
 
Thanks for the detailed reply.

I did manage to change to socket - its relatively straight forward once you work out how its held in place - and it now comes on with no crackling or melting of anything. Unfortunately it immediately complains about a temperature sensor overload so it look like the damage extends beyond the socket
If it’s just the temp probe/ thermistor it’s a cheap and easy fix. I replaced mine on my BZ 3.1.1 and I’ve got absolutely no electrical experience
 
Angel Brew have them @ just over a fiver
But not in stock at moment just search for it and add uk on the end of the search will provide other suppliers
 
Angel Brew have them @ just over a fiver
But not in stock at moment just search for it and add uk on the end of the search will provide other suppliers
Yeah I saw that, but its the gen 3 version. I imagine they're the same but the fact that they specifically say gen 3 makes me a bit nervous. Anyway, like you say, they're out of stock so its academic really.

I use google.co.uk rather than .com, which allows you to restrict results to just the UK under tools. I couldn't see any suppliers other than Angel homebrew, but I'm guessing that's because they're out of stock everywhere and the other suppliers don't show stock that's unavailable
 
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