Can Kit Chill Haze. Any advice?

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Tetsuo1981

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Hi all

Bottled my 2nd brew about a week and a half ago and stuck one in the fridge purely in the interest of science and saw that I've got chill haze again. The little I've read up states that it shouldn't happen in can kits but this is the 2nd time it's happend. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong and I know it's the protein in the beer doing something.

Basically I need it explaining to me in simple layman / children's terms what it is and what I can do about it. I have no brew fridge or any way to really regulate the brew temperature. Tried both Wilko and Beer Brite Finings. Anything else to try?

Cheers
 
Is it chill haze or suspended yeast? Are you leaving the others to fully carbonate? Do they drop clear eventually if left out of the fridge?
 
Is it chill haze or suspended yeast? Are you leaving the others to fully carbonate? Do they drop clear eventually if left out of the fridge?
I'm leaning towards chill haze as it was pretty damn clear in the bottle, like my last brew was. Stick it in the fridge and it's not clear (and not condensation on the bottle) and becomes clear when it comes up to room temp again.

Control plastic bottle is rock hard so pretty sure it's carbed well and evidence of sediment at the bottom of the bottle
 
That may be chill haze. Drink it!
Oh trust me, it's getting drunk whatever happens!!! I figured it was chill haze, just wondering what I could improve on on my next brew. I'm still only on can kits, need to save some pennies before jumping to grain or BIAB. I've heard of Irish moss and protofloc(?) But they seem to be for all grain brewing over simple can kit / extract brewing
 
I have never had a problem with chill haze when I was brewing from a kit. Since moving onto partial and all grain I have found it allot more of an issue myself but all my beers have tasted good to me and the haze doesn't put me off. I am currently using cornelius kegs and don't like to wait for a brew to clear anyway . I am sure if you gave your brew a bit more time in the fv maybe a week after fermentation before bottling might help as when I was kit brewing they stood for a month and still carb well. Add some findings a day or two before bottling, into a pressure barrel and prime. Then pump in co2 and bottle under pressure. A bit over the top but always turned out great For me.
 
Cheers for that, I'll have to give bottling under pressure a go on the next one. And will try leaving beer in the fv for longer (was in for 2 weeks and a couple of days). And will try a different type of Finings next time for comparison
 
I too have a persistent issue with chill-haze. Without the ability to cold-crash and then fine it's hard to eliminate totally. I have found things improved somewhat when using highly flocculant yeast e.g. Nottingham and S04 and also, gelatine finings. Even used at room temperature gelatine still appears to offer some benefits. Added to the FV a couple of days prior to bottling the beer drops clear and bright pretty much overnight once bottled. While highly flocculant yeast combined with gelatine certainly seems quite an effective beer-clearing combo the chill-haze causing compounds - i.e. polyphenols bound to proteins at lower temperatures, are an entirely different matter. But my casual observations suggest that even these chill-haze causing menaces seem to be reduced to some extent too. Recently I notice if I serve a current best bitter fermented with Nottingham and treated with gelatine at 10-12ºC it's very clear whereas with previous brews it would start to form haze even at this temperature. It still hazes up a bit at fridge temp though - i.e. around 4ºC.
 
I have found things improved somewhat when using highly flocculant yeast e.g. Nottingham and S04 and also, gelatine finings
Thanks for the reply, definitely some food for thought there. Using the Nottingham yeast over yeast that comes with the kit, is that something that's worth doing despite additional cost or is that something best reserved for all-grain brewing in your opinion? And said for gelatine Finings, that's something I am going to try, would you go with a pre made one or just use gelatine from a supermarket?
 
My advice would be to just not worry about it. It's the flavour that matters. Plenty of very popular commercially brewed beers have a touch of haze in them. The super high clarity ones are often filtered and force carbonated. Alternatively, try leaving them in the fridge for a few weeks before you drink, given long enough the chill haze often drops out, and as a bonus you often get better head retention too.
 
My advice would be to just not worry about it. It's the flavour that matters. Plenty of very popular commercially brewed beers have a touch of haze in them. The super high clarity ones are often filtered and force carbonated. Alternatively, try leaving them in the fridge for a few weeks before you drink, given long enough the chill haze often drops out, and as a bonus you often get better head retention too.

I'm not too worried, it certainly didn't stop me from enjoying my first brew anyway!! I plan to stash away 10 or 20 out of the 40 bottles I have to revisit after some time (which I should have done with the first brew but it was too tasty!). I suppose I was just expecting a noticeable difference using Beer Brite over Wilko Finings. A couple more of these kits under my belt and I'll think about getting a brewing fridge to try and sort my temperature issues out (if I can make room in my shed)
 
Using the Nottingham yeast over yeast that comes with the kit, is that something that's worth doing despite additional cost or is that something best reserved for all-grain brewing in your opinion?
The yeast supplied with many of the cans is usually a fairly generic strain, robust and reliable with the novice brewer in mind. I know the ale yeast supplied with many of the Coopers cans for example can handle a bit of temperature abuse (up to 27ºC). They supply the bare minimum required for a 'kit and kilo' brew, and usually they get the job done without issue, but most would say that one small improvement you can easily make to the cans is to use a more specific yeast - one better suited to the style.

And said for gelatine Finings, that's something I am going to try, would you go with a pre made one or just use gelatine from a supermarket?
I use the stuff from the supermarket... same thing and a heck of a lot cheaper!
 
When I did kits, I got chill haze with nearly every brew.
Glad it's not just me then! I can't remember where I read it but it was stated somewhere that kits shouldn't suffer from chill haze, which is why I thought I'd put the feelers out on here for a general consensus
 
...but most would say that one small improvement you can easily make to the cans is to use a more specific yeast - one better suited to the style.

I use the stuff from the supermarket... same thing and a heck of a lot cheaper!

Changing the yeast is something I'm gonna have to look more into but I'll have to sort my temperature control (or lack of) before hand. Time to start stalking eBay and schpock and the local charity shops for a brew fridge!
 
The finished product. Hazy but tasty. Still young but just wanted to try one. Purely in the interest of science...
IMG_20180429_153606.jpg
 
I keep looking, and got my dad on the case too where he lives. I'm sure I'll nab one sooner or later. Already got inkbird and heater bookmarked on eBay for when I find one
They're a doddle to set up. Just remember to drill through the door and not the side/top or you could end up wasting a fridge. I learned that the hard way.

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