Over clearing beer in FV, making priming the keg difficult?

[jason101]

Hi, this is my first post. (I hope it is in the right section) I have been extract brewing for about a year and a half now and this is my first problem. I hope you more experienced guys can help.

Two weeks ago I transferred three beers from three fv's into three cornys.

One of the beers (a pure cascade extract brew) was a gift for my brother, so I wanted it very clear. So for this one I put the tub in the fridge with finings for five days to clear, while the others just had two days in the fridge clearing with no finings.

Then they were all transferred to corneys with added priming sugar and kept at room temperature for two weeks.

Now the ones which had no finings and only two days clearing in the fridge have carbed up with massive heads on pouring. And the one with finings and five days in the fridge is sweet tasting and with no head.

So ... the obvious question is going to be-will this keg condition i.e. carb up for drinking? Either on its own or with help?

Thanks for reading and your hopefully your replies.
Kind Rgards
Jason

 

[Vossy1]

Hi Jason and welcome to the forum :thumb:
My suspicion is that the fined keg will take longer to carb due to a lower yeast count on transfer, so all is not lost, it'll just require a little more time. There is always the possibility the keg isn't holding pressure.

 

[Hawks]

If you wanted it very clear, would you not be better off force carbing? As by priming in the corny you will be creating more sediment.

 

[Fore]

If you wanted it very clear, would you not be better off force carbing? As by priming in the corny you will be creating more sediment.

+1.

One of the great advantages of Cornies, over standard plastic kegs, is the ability to completely skip the keg priming bit and just inject CO2. It reduces effort, removes guess work, allows for precise carbing, and allows you to clear the waiting beer for as long as you like (within reason) before kegging. Still, I do still bottle my +18 litre overproduction, and with the vastly clearer beer that I am then bottling, I have suffered some bottle carbing problems. But I think that's a time issue (sometimes I just can't wait).

 

[jason101]

Hi Jason and welcome to the forum :thumb:
My suspicion is that the fined keg will take longer to carb due to a lower yeast count on transfer, so all is not lost, it'll just require a little more time. There is always the possibility the keg isn't holding pressure.

Thanks for all your replies.

Hi Vossy1,

Its holding pressure ok, I purged and sealed it and a little tug on the safety valve today gave a big hiss. So I think more time at room temperature may help, if there is enough yeast left.

If you wanted it very clear, would you not be better off force carbing? As by priming in the corny you will be creating more sediment.

+1.

One of the great advantages of Cornies, over standard plastic kegs, is the ability to completely skip the keg priming bit and just inject CO2. It reduces effort, removes guess work, allows for precise carbing, and allows you to clear the waiting beer for as long as you like (within reason) before kegging. Still, I do still bottle my +18 litre overproduction, and with the vastly clearer beer that I am then bottling, I have suffered some bottle carbing problems. But I think that's a time issue (sometimes I just can't wait).

I know I have thought about force carbing but have not as yet for two reasons. Firstly I have two young children in the house and did not want a large gas canister as a potential projectile, so I went for S20's. And cost wise, I'm not so sure how long they will last force carbing. The other reason is I am trying to get as close to real ale as I can.

So for this particular keg it may be the answer is (as most answers seem to be in home brewing) PATIENTS It is so hard when you are thirsty! As long as I am not flogging a dead horse I will keep it at room temperature for another few weeks and see how it goes.

Has anyone here tried clearing beer in the keg after conditioning? I guess if possible, the first couple of pints would be sediment and then you are in the clear??

And has anyone tried force carbing from a S20?

Thanks again for your replies.

 

[Antony]

Not an S20, but I understand some people use co2 fire extinguishers

 

[Vossy1]

So I think more time at room temperature may help, if there is enough yeast left.

Just wait and be patient. It's almost impossible to fine yeast out of beer as a homebrew, you can only reduce it, it wil simply take longer to prime and by the sounds of it, it's fine

Has anyone here tried clearing beer in the keg after conditioning? I guess if possible, the first couple of pints would be sediment and then you are in the clear??

Yep. Even when racked relatively bright/clear you'll get a layer of yeast deposited at the base of the corny, the 1st 1/5 pint or so will need chucking if you don't like yeast in your beer, the rest will be clear and fine.

 

[jason101]

Thanks Vossy1,

Nice determinative clear advice there, excellent. :hat: