Simple kit plus mini-mash method to improve a kit

Discussion in 'Beer Brewing "How-To" Guides' started by clibit, Apr 22, 2015.

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  1. May 3, 2015 #21

    Hops_and_Dreams

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    Yep, and when you have the nerve to suggest that a jumper may be an alternative, the reaction is about the same as if I'd said 'Why don't you run down the road, naked?'
     
  2. May 3, 2015 #22

    clibit

    clibit

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    My Mrs would do both, just to humour me. And they say, "I'm bloody FREEZING."
     
  3. May 11, 2015 #23

    HisDudeness

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    Looking to do my first experiment outside of kits using this method the plan is as follows:

    Batch 20L
    1.7kg Coopers APA
    1.5kg Maris Otter
    0.3kg CaraHell
    0.2kg LME

    25g Galaxy Hop Pellets @ 60 mins
    25g Galaxy Hop Pellets Dry Hop for 5days
    Yeast: Safale S-05
    Target OG: 1.048
    Est ABV 4.7%
    IBU 38.0

    This is my first attempt at using a brewing calculator and was based around the recipes at the start of the thread so first of all does this look like a workable recipe? I was hoping for something along the lines of an Old Golden Hen style beer.

    Also how do I take into account the bitterness of the kit extract? The calculated IBU above is based on 1.7kg of pale liquid malt which obviously is unhopped but I couldnt see any way to incorporate hopped extract into the calculator.

    Any help much appreciated
     
  4. May 11, 2015 #24

    clibit

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    The kit will give you approx 20 IBUs. So you can probably halve the 60 min Galaxy addition.

    Looks good.
     
  5. May 11, 2015 #25

    HisDudeness

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    Great thanks, once the golden stag finally stops bubbling this will be going straight in the pot, hopefully followed by that old peculiar recipe you came up with :thumb:
    P.s where do you get or how do you work out that kit IBU? So its just a case of adding this to the IBUs from hop additions to get the final figure?
     
  6. May 11, 2015 #26

    clibit

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    Coopers do provide the IBUs of their cans:

    Coopers Kits

    Lager 90 EBC 390 IBU
    Draught 130 EBC 420 IBU
    Real Ale 230 EBC 560 IBU
    Bitter 420 EBC 620 IBU
    Dark Ale 550 EBC 590 IBU
    Stout 1800 EBC 710 IBU
    Canadian Blonde 70 EBC 420 IBU
    Bavarian Lager 90 EBC 390 IBU
    Mexican Cerveza 53 EBC 300 IBU
    Australian Pale Ale 90 EBC 340 IBU

    This is for the concentrated form in the can - to get the figure for 20 litres: multiply by 1.25 and divide by 20.

    Just add that figure to the IBUs from your hop additions, yes.
     
  7. May 12, 2015 #27

    yeastinfection

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    Hi guys, just re-read this thread and got myself a little confused.
    i have a Wherrys real ale kit,3kg 2tins,
    can someone advise me on what i can do to "improve"or make it different. ?
    are both cans the same content? can i use one can and add a mini mash? im guessing if i use both cans i it will be too much sugar?
    ive enjoyed doing the simple ag, so im wanting to try this,
    im about to place an order for more grains and hops so any advise will be much appreciated.
    :cheers:
     
  8. May 12, 2015 #28

    Covrich

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    I don't know much about the wherry kit so I may have this wrong but you could do a partial mash with some maris otter and use some East Kent Goldings hops

    I would also swap the yeast out for Gervin ale yeast (nottingham) or Safale 04.

    I think kit yeast isn't the best and replacing that alone can improve a kit, but Wherry seems notorious for sticking too.
     
  9. May 13, 2015 #29

    Slid

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    Both cans are the same. I have done mini mashes of up to 1.5-2kg of grain using a 2 can kit, brewing long to 25-27L with great results.

    As regards the Wherry yeast, the best ideas include:

    • Using a different yeast altogether (I kind of like this one)
    • Doubling up the yeast - use 2 of them
    • Using an 11g Gervin yeast sachet from Wilko (which is basically the same as the 2nd suggestion)
    • Making sure the wort is properly aerated
    • Doubling all times for each stage - FV 2-3 weeks - total time 2-3 months
     
  10. May 16, 2015 #30

    Slid

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    I've not been feeling too good with a cold that has dragged on for about 4 weeks. Woke up this morning feeling OK for a brewday and got started abround 7.30 tidying up the kitchen and generally pottering about.

    I used this methodology to do a Pale Ale with a bit more mashing water and 2.5k Maris Otter. Basically I used as much water as would fill the 15L pot to about an inch and a half from the brim.

    Did the mash out heating up to 75C then poured the contents into the Nylon Bag in an FV, drained the bag using a collander and then did a small dunk sparge of the grains for about 10 mins. The dunk seemed to get some more sugars out, but I might have been a bit optimistic

    Couldn't fit all the water safely in the 15L pot, so had to do a small overflow pan separately. Used 25g Fuggles and 25g First Gold, half of each at 25mins and 7mins.

    It did take ages to cool the wort down using 2 changes of water in the sink

    Used a Coopers APA kit, which is pretty much all the bittering I wanted.

    Eventually finished clearing up about 12.30.
     
  11. May 16, 2015 #31

    yeastinfection

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    So 75c then you let it sit for an hour.is that right?
    Then strained it and did another sparge-soak for 10 mins.
    Boiled for an hour? Added hops and then cooled.
    Added that to extract and topped up the rest with water?
    What difference does the different temps makes? I see a few threads where the temp for mashing etc is very specific.
     
  12. May 17, 2015 #32

    clibit

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    Your mash temp needs to be between 64 and 70. To achieve this you heat your water to around 75, and then mix the grain in. This will lower the temperature into the 65 to 70 range. You can then adjust the temperature with cold or boiling water to a specific temperature. You don't want mash above 70.
     
  13. May 17, 2015 #33

    HisDudeness

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    Had my first go at this today and it seems to have gone to plan so far but I have a question about the wort, I strained it into the bucket as per the guide and it has already formed a thick layer of sediment at the bottom of the FV. What is this stuff and is it a problem for the beer I.e should I rack it off into another FV?
    Thanks in advance
     
  14. May 17, 2015 #34

    HisDudeness

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    Photo of sediment as above

    image.jpg
     
  15. May 17, 2015 #35

    stevej

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    Thats normal nothing to worry about its trub/ protiens dropping out and the powder from your grains
    Steve
     
  16. May 17, 2015 #36

    HisDudeness

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  17. May 23, 2015 #37

    Slid

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    This material is just a feature of the process, I think. All my PM's have thrown about 2L of trub more than might be expected from a kit brew. It all seems to drop out, though, if you use the Protofloc / Irish Moss.

    None seems to drop through to the glass in the end, I have have got very clear - brilliant, in fact - beer in the end.
     
  18. May 25, 2015 #38

    Hops_and_Dreams

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    I have this with my current batch, the extra sediment I've got means that the trub is now level with my tap.

    I've ordered a 5 gallon paint strainer, as suggested by MyQul, to filter it out as it goes into the FV, hopefully!
     
  19. May 25, 2015 #39

    Slid

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    This is such a good idea, that naturally, I seem to have ordered six.

    Like you do.

    Would not want to be without one. And if they are still going unused in x years time, they can be passed off as net curtains, perhaps.
     
  20. May 25, 2015 #40

    Hops_and_Dreams

    Hops_and_Dreams

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    I ordered mine from amazon, was quite chuffed with my purchase of 2 for 3.53. After I had completed the order I noticed that the delivery date was mid June. That'll be a US seller then! Should pay more attention.
     

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