Elements for Stainless steel boiler build?

[D C]

Hi all, After reading Vossy1's Boiler Build post more than a few times I have decied to start gathering the materials to build a stainless steel boiler. The only thing I am concerned about is sourcing the elements for this project, I am currently using Tesco Kettle elements in my plastic boiler but I want to get a way from that with the stainless boiler and make it look a bit more professional. Does anyone know where I can source the type of elements & leads like the ones in Vossy's build post?

Vossy's materials with elements

Would like the type of elements with shrouds like these.

Cheers DC

 

[Mark1964]

Try backer elements www.backer.co.uk they sell a 2.75 kw element which I'm sure are the same as vossy uses

 

[PD]

The Homebrew Company ( above, one of our sponsors ). do a similar one...

http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/spa ... -1096.html

 

[MacKiwi]

Hey, I think those are from the homebrewcompany

http://www.thehomebrewcompany.co.uk/spa ... -1096.html

I used these myself in my recent brewery build, and they are working fine for me so far. They are fairly cheap too. I use 2 in a 100L boiler, so 4kW total, and that seems to be enough.

If you use them, I would recommend replacing the flimsy pastic locknut that comes with them with these...

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/KM8_LDK_Be ... p?shopping

I wouldn't say they are fully shrouded, but when they are plugged in you would have to be fairly unlucky to have something splash up between the plug and socket and short out. Combined with an RCD/RCBO it is good enough for me. Plus it is quite nice being able to unplug the boiler quickly and cart it off to the sink for a scrub...

 

[PD]

Do you use two separate circuits for the elements ? I am completely ignorant of electricity ratings etc, just always read that if 2 elements are used they should be on separate circuits, with RCB's of course

 

[MacKiwi]

No, the elements are 2.2kW (note that this is less than older kettle elements which would use 3kW) which means they draw around 9A each. Your ring-mains circuit (supplying your sockets) will supply up to 32A total - this is for everything plugged into sockets on the ring main, not just your elements. So provided there isn't much else drawing current on the circuit, you can easily draw 2x9=18A with your elements.

People have noted that a single socket box, even if it has two socket outlets on the front, is rated for 13A. So to be safe you should not connect both elements to the same double socket. Connect them to different socket outlets on the same circuit.

In my case, I actually have 4 elements (2 in the HLT, 2 in the boiler). These are "cross-connected" to two double sockets. I only switch on one element on one double socket at a time (so I can enable 2xboiler, 2xHLT or 1xboiler+1xHLT at a time - never more than 2 elements on at a time).

In practice, I have tested the system running all 4 elements at the same time, and it works without blowing any fuses and nothing heats up (except the wort!). However, this is not a safe situation and is not recommended.

In the long term, when I build my PID controller, I will run seperate dedicated 20A circuits for the HLT and boiler, which will make it all even safer and I won't have to worry about what I have on or off at any point in time.


I am not a Sparky - this is just my opinion, not advice. If you aren't sure, seek professional advice :)

 

[PD]

thank you. I wish to run 2 elements in a large boiler and one element in the hlt, Maximum would be 2 elements on at a time.
Thanks for your post I do appreciate advise is given as advice with conditions and if in any doubt a sparky is the best option to go for.

 

[MacKiwi]

In my opinion that sounds fine...