Mash pH = Pre-boil Ph?

[BasementArtie]

Hi everyone and sorry for probably a very simple question.

Is estimated Mash Ph (measured after let's say 20-45mins after mash) the same as when people talk about Pre-boil Ph?

Or is the an expected drop in Ph when removing the grain?

This is in regards to full volume Biab or an RO / no alkalinity sparge (which I assume would have no buffering ability so would just become the same Ph as the as the regular mash)

 

[MashBag]

Let's try this a different way. What's the problem your are trying to solve?

 

[BasementArtie]

The problem I'm trying to solve is based off of pre and post boil pH so I can calculate a post boil acid addition. However I'm unsure to whether I can use the estimated mash pH as the pre boil value.

 

[foxy]

Hi everyone and sorry for probably a very simple question.

Is estimated Mash Ph (measured after let's say 20-45mins after mash) the same as when people talk about Pre-boil Ph?

Or is the an expected drop in Ph when removing the grain?

This is in regards to full volume Biab or an RO / no alkalinity sparge (which I assume would have no buffering ability so would just become the same Ph as the as the regular mash)

So if you sparged with RO water you will be raising your pH. Easiest way is to just add acid to the sparge water or you can treat your sparge water as you did the mash water.
Best way especially with brew in a bag is forego the sparge altogether

 

[Sadfield]

The problem I'm trying to solve is based off of pre and post boil pH so I can calculate a post boil acid addition. However I'm unsure to whether I can use the estimated mash pH as the pre boil value.

The following gives desired pH ranges at the end of each stage.

https://www.morebeer.com/articles/understanding_ph_in_brewing
The only pH you should need to adjust is the mash pH, everything else should follow through. pH will rise above mash pH when sparging, then lower during the boil.

What are the specifics of the problem you have?

 

[BasementArtie]

So if you sparged with RO water you will be raising your pH. Easiest way is to just add acid to the sparge water or you can treat your sparge water as you did the mash water.
Best way especially with brew in a bag is forego the sparge altogether

Hi Foxy,

I was under the impression that RO water sits around 5-6 pH anyway due to carbonic acid being formed, but also due to its alkalinity it's not able to buffer, so the acidity of the mash will quickly bring it down inline with the rest of the wort. Which removes the need to acidify the storage water.

Is this not correct?

 

[foxy]

Hi Foxy,

I was under the impression that RO water sits around 5-6 pH anyway due to carbonic acid being formed, but also due to its alkalinity it's not able to buffer, so the acidity of the mash will quickly bring it down inline with the rest of the wort. Which removes the need to acidify the storage water.

Is this not correct?

Rule of thumb is a pH of 5.5 for sparge water. It won’t raise the pH before the boil. A lot depends on the amount of sparge water as well. So yes it is correct what you are doing.

 

[hoppyscotty]

This is interesting....



executive summary:
for hoppy IPA's the target here is for a pre-boil ph (before any hop additions) of 4.6 or lower.
Post boil around 4.7 - 4.8...boil pushes PH down but hop additions increases it.
thinking behind it....less colouration development during the boil
Finished beer and packaging: ph 4.5 or lower...ideally under. Main reason is for food safety and better preservation of the beer.