New pressure barrel from Wilkos

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I'm after one of these whilst i research the corny keg or crusader set up I'm hoping to have by the end of the year.. Does this take the 8g co2 sparklets and do you need to buy the bulb holder also on sale for a fiver?
Thanks

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It does indeed ... :thumb: :thumb:

... but my local Wilko's doesn't have them in stock. :doh:

They are sold in two's (different designs by the look of them) and I have now been waiting four days for them to be delivered to the store for collection.

With regard to the "corny keg or crusader set up" I still dream ... :lol: :lol:

... but I also manage to store my beer long enough to drink it without them! :thumb: :thumb:
 
OK thanks for the reply. Looks a good piece of kit for the price. Always used bottles and a tap a draft.

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Got the two CO2 applicators late yesterday so I filled the barrel with water to above the bottom take-off and tested the keg by injecting a capsule of CO2.

The cap immediately leaked because I didn't tighten it up enough; but sealed perfectly with an extra tweak.

The tap leaked at the joint but again sealed perfectly with a slight tweak with a pair of grips.

Left for 24 hours is has retained all of the pressure so it is now ready to be filled when my Muntons Gold IPA stops fermenting. (Still going strong after eight days!)

My advice for anyone buying a new keg is to check it out before use.

In particular, the leak from the cap seal would not have been immediately apparent with beer slowly carbonating; so I wouldn't have known that it was leaking until at least a week into secondary fermentation.

The outlet of the Wilco keg sits so high up the side of the barrel that nearly four pints of beer could be left behind when it is "empty". Its a great feature to avoid pulling yeast from secondary fermentation; but it would also lose nearly 10% of a normal brew; and that's a lot of beer!

In view of this, I suggest that the day before the barrel is put into use it is tilted forwards a few degrees. This will allow beer to be pulled without picking up any yeast and will also reduce the amount left behind when the barrel is "empty". :thumb: :thumb:
 
I had a look at one of these in my local Wilkos yesterday. In the cap there is a foam ring around the CO2 bulb piercing needle. What's this for? Is it the relief valve itself or does it cover the relief valve?
Ta in advance of a reply
 
I had a look at one of these in my local Wilkos yesterday. In the cap there is a foam ring around the CO2 bulb piercing needle. What's this for? Is it the relief valve itself or does it cover the relief valve?
Ta in advance of a reply

It's just a protector to make sure that the brass threads don't get damaged in transit.

There is the usual pressure relief valve on the outside and a non-return valve on the inside. (Both of them being rubber rings tightly fitted to the injector.) :thumb:
 
So If I have the large co2 canister, I'll need to use a different cap for it ? Wonder if it will take a King Keg cap.
 
Dutto,im also drinking the Aussie lager with Cascade,how much of a dry hop did you give yours?
I added 100g of Cascade pellets and then regretted it as i thought it would be too much but it has turned out superb.
 
The outlet of the Wilco keg sits so high up the side of the barrel that nearly four pints of beer could be left behind when it is "empty". Its a great feature to avoid pulling yeast from secondary fermentation; but it would also lose nearly 10% of a normal brew; and that's a lot of beer!

In view of this, I suggest that the day before the barrel is put into use it is tilted forwards a few degrees. This will allow beer to be pulled without picking up any yeast and will also reduce the amount left behind when the barrel is "empty". :thumb: :thumb:

Don't understand this - when the beer level gets down to the tap all you've got to do is tip the barrel up and you can get 90% of what's left before you start pulling yeast out as well.
 
Don't understand this - when the beer level gets down to the tap all you've got to do is tip the barrel up and you can get 90% of what's left before you start pulling yeast out as well.

I dunno about anyone else, but I only have two hands! :lol:

One holds the glass and the other one operates the tap ... :thumb:

... which is why I suggested tilting the barrel before it gets anywhere near empty. :thumb: :thumb:
 
I dunno about anyone else, but I only have two hands! :lol:

One holds the glass and the other one operates the tap ... :thumb:

... which is why I suggested tilting the barrel before it gets anywhere near empty. :thumb: :thumb:

Well the way you do it with mini keg (I'm assuming a similar operation with pressure barrels). Is turn the tap on, nothing will come out as the beer is now just below the level of the tap. Hold your glass with one hand nder the tap and tip the MK/PB forward with the other. As the level of the beer goes above the tap, because it's now tipped forward, it starts to flow out of the tap. When your glass is full just return the MK/PB to the starting positon and the beer stops flowing because it's now below the level of the tap. You can then close the tap with the hand thats not holding your glass - easy peasy :thumb:
 
I bought 2 of these in the end, and I've just found out they are a right PITA to move about when full.
I store my beer upstairs, and carry it down to my beer fridge, which is in the kitchen on top of the worktop. The integrated handles are only deep enough to get fingertips in. I can see me dropping a full one before too long. They definitely need another handle, maybe on the lid like the old rotokegs.
 
25%offallhpme brewing kit at Wilko's presently- went in for some crown caps, but came out with 2 PB's- 24 quid each... Look very well made, I'll keep you updated...
 
Is larger any good in pb or is it better bottled, I may go wilcos!!
 
Hi nige,
I am led to understand the cheaper barrels cant get the pressure required for lager levels of carbonation.I suppose it comes down to personal likes.
Also as understand it is a tad more difficult to get a good larger than a bitter from the kits.
 
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