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After taking in all the advice and suggestions (many thanks to everyone who has shared their thoughts and expertise) I have yet another question. Given that Starter Kits, like the Woodfordes Microbrewery kit, come with just a premade wort, and given that brewing from full grain is several steps up the ladder requiring more equipment at greater cost, is a partial mash kit a happy medium? For example, there are various partial mash kits advertised here and I'm am sure elsewhere. Can such a kit be brewed with the same basic equipment that comes with the Woodfordes Kit and, as I am hoping, would there be a noticeably improvement in the end result?
 
The Woodfordes Starter Kit I am tempted to start with has grain as part of the Kit, as far as can see? Forget the fish tank heater in favour of a proper brew fridge? How come? What is inkbird?

Have a look here

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=66732&highlight=inkbird

Inkbird basically is accurate way to controlling the heating and cooling of your brew fridge, Think of the fridge as a insulated box, which comes with a cooling system, you buy a small 40w tube heater and plug that and the fridge into the inkird 308. You set the Inkbird FOR example at 19 oC for your brew. If the temp drops in the brew fridge, the heater will bring it up to desired temp, If in summer for example it rises above the desired value the cooling system will bring it back down.
You can use it to condition brews when bottled or when not brewing to keep your beer just at the right temperature for serving.

http://www.berrybrew.co.uk/fermentation-fridge-build-brew-fridge/
 
Have a look here

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=66732&highlight=inkbird

Inkbird basically is accurate way to controlling the heating and cooling of your brew fridge, Think of the fridge as a insulated box, which comes with a cooling system, you buy a small 40w tube heater and plug that and the fridge into the inkird 308. You set the Inkbird FOR example at 19 oC for your brew. If the temp drops in the brew fridge, the heater will bring it up to desired temp, If in summer for example it rises above the desired value the cooling system will bring it back down.
You can use it to condition brews when bottled or when not brewing to keep your beer just at the right temperature for serving.

http://www.berrybrew.co.uk/fermentation-fridge-build-brew-fridge/

Thanks for the explanation and for the link. A very comprehensive explanation of how to make and wire a brew fridge that even I could understand. That all makes sense, now thanks. Assuming the heater lead is just held in situ by the closed fridge door. Not Sure how the Inkjet variation is set up but I imagine it is similar.
 
Thanks for the explanation and for the link. A very comprehensive explanation of how to make and wire a brew fridge that even I could understand. That all makes sense, now thanks. Assuming the heater lead is just held in situ by the closed fridge door. Not Sure how the Inkjet variation is set up but I imagine it is similar.

Inkbird sits outside the fridge, most drill a small hole in the side of the fridge, google and utube it. Some cracking videos on utube
The 308 inkbird etc just has a twin socket, one for cooling and one for heating, obvious which plug goes where as its labeled.
Ive lost count this past few months on the mount ive read and videos ive watched :)
 
Inkbird sits outside the fridge, most drill a small hole in the side of the fridge, google and utube it. Some cracking videos on utube
The 308 inkbird etc just has a twin socket, one for cooling and one for heating, obvious which plug goes where as its labeled.
Ive lost count this past few months on the mount ive read and videos ive watched :)

So the inkbird is essentially the same thing without the need to add two plug sockets and build the control box. If so, even better.
 
I'll just add a quick comment about the peco with the temperature control - it won't work out the box for doing stepped mashes, or even keeping the mash at a constant temperature. What happens is the wort near the element gets too hot or the rest of the wort gets too cold. In order to have a even temperature it is easiest to heat the water (strike water) to a temperature that gives you get the desired mash temp once the grain is added (there are calculators online for this). You can then insulate the mash tun with a duvet or something equivalent and it won't drop in temp more than a degree or so. If you absolutely insist on controlling the mash temp with heating, or doing a stepped mash, then you will need to circulate the water to avoid hotspots - either using a automated brewing system like the Grainfather or Braumeister, or making your own HERMS or RIMS system.
 
I'll just add a quick comment about the peco with the temperature control - it won't work out the box for doing stepped mashes, or even keeping the mash at a constant temperature. What happens is the wort near the element gets too hot or the rest of the wort gets too cold. In order to have a even temperature it is easiest to heat the water (strike water) to a temperature that gives you get the desired mash temp once the grain is added (there are calculators online for this). You can then insulate the mash tun with a duvet or something equivalent and it won't drop in temp more than a degree or so. If you absolutely insist on controlling the mash temp with heating, or doing a stepped mash, then you will need to circulate the water to avoid hotspots - either using a automated brewing system like the Grainfather or Braumeister, or making your own HERMS or RIMS system.

Thats getting into regions of expense and an area where also great experience and taste buds would come into play, The newbie like myself wont have these
The heat around the heating element in a burco boiler would create density difference between the colder wort in the downcomers and the hotter wort mixture in the upward circulation which would ensure the circulation of the wort mixture back around the drum. Only wort exposed to extreme temperature at static circulation would cause breakdown. If im understanding your post correctly.
I do agree however to the expert and a proper brewery a separate heat source more evenly divided would be ideal. Also a circulated wort over the entire area of the heating pipe work would keep temperature changes to maximum efficacy and min heat differential.
 
Here's a list of Inkbird models for the new members.

Inkbird ITC-308,the most hot sale model with heating and cooling socket.
Inkbird ITC-310T, you can set 6 periods of temperature, timer heating and cooling thermostat.
Inkbird ITC-306T, 2 stages timer temp controller.
Inkbird ITC-1000, DIY heating and cooling temperature controller.
Inkbird ITC-2000, DIY heating OR cooling temperature controller.
Inkbird IHC-200, humidity controller.
Inkbird IHC-230, temperature & humidity controller 2-in-1 unit.
Inkbird IBT-2X, kitchen bluetooth thermometer,ok for mashing, temperature range: -50 ~ 300 ° C.
 
Here's a list of Inkbird models for the new members.

Inkbird ITC-308,the most hot sale model with heating and cooling socket.
Inkbird ITC-310T, you can set 6 periods of temperature, timer heating and cooling thermostat.
Inkbird ITC-306T, 2 stages timer temp controller.
Inkbird ITC-1000, DIY heating and cooling temperature controller.
Inkbird ITC-2000, DIY heating OR cooling temperature controller.
Inkbird IHC-200, humidity controller.
Inkbird IHC-230, temperature & humidity controller 2-in-1 unit.
Inkbird IBT-2X, kitchen bluetooth thermometer,ok for mashing, temperature range: -50 ~ 300 ° C.

Do any of your models allow stepped temperature changes, i.e. 18c for 5 days, 22c for 2 days then down to 1c for 3 days?
 
Do any of your models allow stepped temperature changes, i.e. 18c for 5 days, 22c for 2 days then down to 1c for 3 days?

I've got the 310T and it's great for this, I usually do normal fermentation temp for 10 days, then raise by 2C for a day and then drop down to 2C until I'm ready to bottle.
 
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Hi Aphid,

It seems that you do not too much about Inkbird, we are the sponsor of HBT UK. We are manufacturer of temperature & humidity control, thermometer, data logger ect.

Join our lastest giveaway to win a free Inkbird, good luck.

http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=626939#post626939

Very much a beginner as far as home brewing is concerned but I would be delighted to receive any model - ideally the 310T - as part of your giveaway offer if you consider me a worthy recipient. Many thanks for letting me know.
 
My Woodfordes Wherry Micro kit is on its way. Pick up my 40 litre trug and 50w aquarium heater tomorrow. Really looking forward to getting started...more so to tasting the finished product. :lol:

Been watching a few YouTube videos of it being made from the kit. One guy posted a follow up video of his taste test. Interestingly, he bottled his beer into 2 litre fizzy drink bottles. What a great and obvious idea! Never thought of doing that. Can anyone vouch for this? A cheap and easy method using recycled plastic drinks bottles. Seems like a winner to me.
 
My Woodfordes Wherry Micro kit is on its way. Pick up my 40 litre trug and 50w aquarium heater tomorrow. Really looking forward to getting started...more so to tasting the finished product. :lol:

Been watching a few YouTube videos of it being made from the kit. One guy posted a follow up video of his taste test. Interestingly, he bottled his beer into 2 litre fizzy drink bottles. What a great and obvious idea! Never thought of doing that. Can anyone vouch for this? A cheap and easy method using recycled plastic drinks bottles. Seems like a winner to me.

I've never used 2L pop bottles for beer, but I have for alcoholic ginger beer and it worked a treat. I bottled my recent beer in 500ml pop bottles which are obviously just smaller versions. The problem with larger bottles is the sediment in the bottom means you have to pour it all in one go. So either you need a huge glass and huge hand, or a jug!
 
I've used 1 and 2ltr PET bottles in the past, it's fine but for best results you do need to pour into a jug with the 2ltr ones because of disrupting the sediment.
These days I use Coopers OxBar PET bottles https://www.amazon.co.uk/Coopers-500ml-Amber-Plastic-Bottles/dp/B008MBLVEI.

They're great. Light, easy to wash, reusable and don't shatter if you drop them or over carbonate. You can often get them cheap from Wilco or Tesco direct. You can get replacement lids for them too. I line the boxes with plastic, just in case one splits but it hasn't happened yet.
 
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It's a means to an end as long as you don't mind drinking in units of 2 litres! A couple of boxes of Coopers pet bottles is £20.00 in wilcos. They're ideal and very reusable.
 
Thanks for your reply. Your linked Kit certainly sounds the same as my own link although there are no illustrative pictures. You seem to have some reservations about the barrel. Personal experiences put you off? As far as I know it contains grain and hops, rather than just a tin of premade wort. I hope so.

I should be able to get an aquarium heater from any pet shop, I guess. What wattage do I need, please? Any online recommendations? There is quite a variety online at prices ranging from about ��£7.00 to �£40.00.

I am still not sure what the trug is? Seems to be a slightly flexible plastic bucket? What do you use it for? Still navigating a steep learning curve!

if you go any builders merchants or diy store and ask for a gorilla bucket they'll know what you mean - id never heard the term trug till now
 
I've never used 2L pop bottles for beer, but I have for alcoholic ginger beer and it worked a treat. I bottled my recent beer in 500ml pop bottles which are obviously just smaller versions. The problem with larger bottles is the sediment in the bottom means you have to pour it all in one go. So either you need a huge glass and huge hand, or a jug!

And a huge thirst? ;-)
 
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