ManseMasher
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Researching how to wire an STC1000, came across loads. This is by far the easiest one for me to get my head around....
Easy to understand STC1000 wiring diagram
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EssexBrewing
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I can't see the point of connector 4,5, 6, or 7, they aren't really doing anything.
You don't really need connector 3 either, just put another brown wear from connector 1 and put that straight into terminal 7
You don't really need connector 3 either, just put another brown wear from connector 1 and put that straight into terminal 7
ManseMasher
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I believe they are the other side of a relay, when temp conditions are met these open/close as required, thus applying or removing power to the heater or cooler. They complete the circuit so are essential.
EssexBrewing
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I don't mean the terminals on the STC thingy, I mean the scotch block connectors that only have one wire going in each side.
ManseMasher
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I see what you mean. Having not seen an stc, but looking at its dimensions, I think its because the connectors on it aren't big enough to get two wires in, hence it's all done in the choc block?
BrewhouseHill
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Appreciate the points above re the potentially unnecessary connections, but this is the diagram I used and mine works a treat.
cheers.
Trevor.
cheers.
Trevor.
EssexBrewing
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I've tried to show what I mean, sorry it's a bit rough but I did it on my phone.
ManseMasher
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See what you mean now! If I can get 3 wires in to terminal one I'll give it a go. What I meant by my first post though was it's easier to understand than these....
I built an stc1000 universal heater cooler, it has plug sockets so I can put anything in... used initially for a home made sous vide water bath for cooking, but tempted to put a heating belt/plate on it. ill have to drop the temp sensor in the brew and seal it with a special grommet etc, but had the idea of feeding the wiring through the bubbler.
I'm waiting for mine to arrive :-P
I did an Internet trawl and looked at a few diagrams which all vary a bit but the general idea is the same. The wiring blocks config make it easier depending on how you are going to connect your supply cables.
I'm sure it would be possible to do without the blocks completely but it would be fiddly. One thing to watch is to make sure that you use the live through the relays. If you mistakenly wire it so that the neutral goes through the STC it will still work but your sockets will be constantly live.
My first plan was to remove the plug from the fish tank heater and wire it straight in but then I read a post about if you do that you have bypassed a fuse which could be dangerous. Makes sense, plus wiring it to a socket or multi-way means increased flexibility.
I'm now thinking of getting a chest freezer to brew in. I reckon if I do then my whole brewing operation will be shifted to the shed by orders of SWIMBO.:-(
Grommets would work. I bought a multi-pack from fleabay. I think it was something like £2.50 for 125 assorted grommets.
I was thinking about putting the sensor in the wort but...
I did some testing yesterday with an infrared thermometer and a normal glass thermometer. The temperature of the outside of a plastic fermenter (or storage box I use as a bath for demijohns) is exactly the same as the that of he liquid inside so I'm going to just put the sensor on the outside of the container sitting in a slot made of tinfoil to make sure it is not being affected by the air temperature.
I would imagine that having the temp sensor submerged in the brew would be more accurate.
having the temp sensor on the outside would measure a combination of the liquid temp and outside temp, proportional to the insulating factor if the container.
having the temp sensor on the outside would measure a combination of the liquid temp and outside temp, proportional to the insulating factor if the container.
You would imagine so (I did) but like I said the temperature of the outside of the FV is exactly the same as its contents.
By the way the temperature of an FV can vary by over a degree between the bottom and the top (in a 21 litre brew). There is a lot less variation during rapid fermentation when it is constantly recirculating the wort.
Apart from having the flexibility of being able to move the probe between different vessels (fvs, water baths) and not having to clean it i'm put off putting it through a grommet as I aleady find it a bit of a pain cleaning the lid of an FV with a heater dangling about trying to smash itself on every hard object it can find :???: this would be another dangler to deal with
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