Kettle elements

[Wabby]

Can anybody suggest a reliable element?

I use the same boiler as a hlt and boiler so the two elements get some hammer.

I have gone through 3 in 8 brews.

They take it in turns. After a few brews one decides to turn itself off (not by switch ... just off) when over 75c and then lower and lower and lower.

Dont want to have to keep changing these tesco elements every month.

Any suggestions?

 

[strange-steve]

When I started brewing I used the value kettle elements and found the same as yourself, they were only lasting 2 or 3 brews. I've no idea why because others use them for years without issue.
Anyway I started using these from eBay and they are brilliant. The first lasted a couple of years before it died and that was only because I accidentally switched it on with no water in the HLT

 

[Cwrw666]

My experience of Tesco value kettles is that they last about 5 minutes. You're better off spending 30 quid on a decent kettle than a fiver on a Tesco one. In the long run it's cheaper.

 

[Brewmarc]

Have a look at "The Home Brew Shop" website they are n Farnborough they sell decent ones 2.5 or 3 kw for about ���£28 for use with the three pin computer leads

 

[Wilfy]

When I started brewing I used the value kettle elements and found the same as yourself, they were only lasting 2 or 3 brews. I've no idea why because others use them for years without issue.
Anyway I started using these from eBay and they are brilliant. The first lasted a couple of years before it died and that was only because I accidentally switched it on with no water in the HLT

How do you plug those in? I'm a bit thick when it comes to electrics.

 

[strange-steve]

How do you plug those in? I'm a bit thick when it comes to electrics.

Just a couple of ring connectors on a flex with a plug top :thumb:

 

[Spapro]

I use the 2.4kw Peco elements, got the first with my BIAB Peco boiler, then added another. Done a good number of brews and then have transplanted both elements into a Stainless pot. Never had a problem with either element and still look as good as new.

A few online sellers sell them, here is a link to one:
http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.uk/boilers-and-mashing/567/24-kw-element
You need the lead also: http://www.copperkettlehomebrewing.co.uk/Boilers%20and%20Mashing/701/13-amp-iec-lead

The element needs a 40mm cut hole, I cut a 38mm hole and had to open it up a little to get the element to fit.

 

[DonV]

When I started brewing I used the value kettle elements and found the same as yourself, they were only lasting 2 or 3 brews. I've no idea why because others use them for years without issue.
Anyway I started using these from eBay and they are brilliant. The first lasted a couple of years before it died and that was only because I accidentally switched it on with no water in the HLT

Hi, Steve,
I thought I'd try one of these. What did you do for a nut? Is it a common plumbing item?
Don

 

[strange-steve]

Hi, Steve,
I thought I'd try one of these. What did you do for a nut? Is it a common plumbing item?
Don

It's a 1" BSP nut, very easy to get :thumb:

 

[DocTrucker]

I've got a 32A supply in the garage and was looking at various heater elements on ebay.

Notice how many of them are 220VAC? From working on industrial machines a while back I'm aware that you can normally allow +/- 10% on the voltage, so 220 should be fine for 198 - 242VAC.

I've two concerns. I think these are resistive heaters and so if you put 230VAC (UK mains voltage) through them they will pull more current, and so output more heat.

Here's the basic math using V=IR (voltage = current * resistance) & P=VI (power = voltagae * current). I'm no electrician, and I'm aware that AC can be a little different to DC so please correct me if I've dropped a bollock!

** Assume 220VAC supply **
I = P/V = 13.6A
R = V/I = 16.2A

** Raise supply to 230VAC **
I = V/R = 14.2A
P = VI = 3266

...so a 4.5% rise in voltage has risen the power consumption by 8.9%.

Going back to my original rule of thumb about +/- 10% voltage not too bad - the 230V is within this. But my problem is I've measured my supply at 250VAC, which is within the +/- 10% of 230, but pushes the 220VAC elements out of the rule of thumb zone! According to the above my power output would be 3874W! 29% above the rated power!

Back to the drawing board, on my 32A supply using two 220VAC 3kW heaters would pull 26A if I ignore the change in power output with increasing the voltage:

I = P/V = 6000 / 230 = 26A

** Correct power for 220 - 230VAC **

I = 6532 / 230 = 28.4A

** Now what about my 250VAC? **

I = 7748 / 250 = 31.0A

All of a sudden I'm knocking on the door of the 32A breaker! As these power ratings are likely to be when the element is running it is highly likely that the elements will pull more current when stone cold. Like a light bulb I'm assuming these will have an inrush current and so I think I'll be forever popping fuses unless I modulate the supply to the elements and then the maths & circuit design gets a bit more complicated!

 

[Fil]

I've got a 32A supply in the garage and was looking at various heater elements on ebay.

Notice how many of them are 220VAC? From working on industrial machines a while back I'm aware that you can normally allow +/- 10% on the voltage, so 220 should be fine for 198 - 242VAC.

I've two concerns. I think these are resistive heaters and so if you put 230VAC (UK mains voltage) through them they will pull more current, and so output more heat.

Here's the basic math using V=IR (voltage = current * resistance) & P=VI (power = voltagae * current). I'm no electrician, and I'm aware that AC can be a little different to DC so please correct me if I've dropped a bollock!

** Assume 220VAC supply **
I = P/V = 13.6A
R = V/I = 16.2A

** Raise supply to 230VAC **
I = V/R = 14.2A
P = VI = 3266

...so a 4.5% rise in voltage has risen the power consumption by 8.9%.

Going back to my original rule of thumb about +/- 10% voltage not too bad - the 230V is within this. But my problem is I've measured my supply at 250VAC, which is within the +/- 10% of 230, but pushes the 220VAC elements out of the rule of thumb zone! According to the above my power output would be 3874W! 29% above the rated power!

Back to the drawing board, on my 32A supply using two 220VAC 3kW heaters would pull 26A if I ignore the change in power output with increasing the voltage:

I = P/V = 6000 / 230 = 26A

** Correct power for 220 - 230VAC **

I = 6532 / 230 = 28.4A

** Now what about my 250VAC? **

I = 7748 / 250 = 31.0A

All of a sudden I'm knocking on the door of the 32A breaker! As these power ratings are likely to be when the element is running it is highly likely that the elements will pull more current when stone cold. Like a light bulb I'm assuming these will have an inrush current and so I think I'll be forever popping fuses unless I modulate the supply to the elements and then the maths & circuit design gets a bit more complicated!

Yup been there after reading 244v on the 2 x 16a supplies to my brewshed.


So I opted to use 1 x 3kw and 1 x 2.4kw element in the hlt and kettle, providing a small overhead on one circuit to provide lighting and power for pumps radio etc..

AS for which elements to use, after deciding to upgrade from budget kettle elements which were a pita to scrub back to shiny post use i bought e few lemons and ended up buying 4 x 100% SS lwd brewing elements from MrLard aka homebrewbuilder. Not cheap But they are top notch..

OP did you strip off the elements protection, a bimetalic ping ring and lil white pin? if these are left intact on a budget kettle element they can cut off element power as soon as any crud starts to build up.

and its crucial to scrub budget kettle elements back to shiney asap post boil leave it too long and you will need acid to strip em but if caught soon after the boil a lil elbow grease and a kitchen scrubby can remove a few mm of crud in just a few minutes.. :thumb:

 

[Wabby]

Didnt know about the pin. Removed the other bit though.

Will remove and try again :)