under pitching yeast?

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yeastinfection

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ive just been looking at the yeast ive been sent for my helles bock,
its for a 23ltr brew with a 7,25kg grain bill.

the instructions on the yeast say 10-15ltrs ..
and to ferment 11-15*c yet the supplier says 10*c

im a little dissapointed with the instructions tbh,as my last brew from the hbc came with a sheet printed out,

[URL=http://s626.photobucket.com/user/Simbo09/media/20161031_183347-1_zpsnxpdyiuq.jpg.html] [/URL]

[URL=http://s626.photobucket.com/user/Simbo09/media/20161031_133928_zpsn7xldd3w.jpg.html] [/URL]

so is this enough yeast for 23ltr and will it be ok @10*c?
 
Alright @Yeastinfection,

Brewersfriend yeast calculator says no, I put on bohemian lager malt as your grain at 7.25kg along with 23L brew length and it says for 1.5 rated lager - you need just under 6 packets for a 10C ferment with OG at approx 1.075. I assume this is starting cold. I suppose you could make a starter after rehydrating or even make a small batch in order to up your yeast count - that way you get beer while waiting for the one you want?

I have to add my knowledge is mostly reading and not experience although I did use 3 packs in a 23L batch of OG 1044ish rehydrated, chilled in fridge and pitched at approx 10/11C cannae really tell you how it turned out cause I was too pashed drinking "sample" bottles and got through them before the conditioning period was even up! I then split the yeast slurry into two new batches.

6 packets of yeast though ouch £ that's about £25.00 - I would be doing a small batch to grow and it's cooling down nicely outside so I don't even reckon you need to use a fridge - a steamish beer :)

Anyway don't suppose this is much use I just like saying I used 3 packets of S23 and really quite fond of it.
 
There are a few things you can do to make it easier for yourself and avoid having to buy several more packets. The first thing would be to make a 2-2.5 litre starter. This should get you to the right range for a lager pitch, especially if you can shake it regularly or even better use a stir plate.

Secondly you could ferment warmer than the 10°C that they recommend. You could start at 13 or 14°C which would help the yeast significantly. It is the cold temperatures which is why lagers need such large pitches of yeast to finish the fermentation.

Finally you can ramp up the temperature to 17-18°C after 5-6 days again to help the yeast and encourage complete attenuation and also clean up any dyacetyl.

After keeping the beer at relatively warm temperatures for a few days and when it has reached final gravity and there is no sign of dyacetyl, bring the temperature back down to 2-3°C and lager it for a week or two.

Search for quick lager method for a better explanation than mine.
 
http://www.geterbrewed.com/the-helles-bock-hammer-all-grain-ingredient-kit/

The Helles Bock Hammer All Grain Ingredient Kit
Lighter than most Bock Beers but still a rich malty Bock, a low hop character with significant alcohol content. A typical spring beer style with the delicious Magnum hops
The premium yeast from fermentis Saflager S-23 is included in this all grain ingredient kit
Premium Grains; Bohemian Pilsner, Crystals, Munich, Melanoidin
Hops; Magnum
7.9% abv
Whirlfloc tablet included
Full instructions included
Grain Bill is 7.25kg
18 Litres of strike water at 77 degrees
Mashing for 60 minutes at 69 degrees
Sparging 10 Litres
Boil size of 28 Litres
Hop additions at 60 mins - 13 IBU's
Fermentis S 23 Lager Yeast
OG 1074
FG 1013
 
I would do what Simonh says. Really start getting into starters. Yeast is the main thing in beer so that's the area you want to get good at. Good yeast, good beer.
 
Received a reply this morning. To say that it is the right one and to use it as it says.
So I think I'll do some research on starters to give it a fighting chance.
 
There's a thread over another homebrew site coincidently where a they've provided this link to an article by Mr Malty ; -

http://www.mrmalty.com/starter_faq.php

Have to say that all my reading on Mr Malty's yeast calculator (rival sites so don't want to offend owners by posting but you can guess the usual suspects) seems to suggest that it is very optimistic on the yeast cell count, so I've used it as a rough guide but stick with brewers friend. Hope it's of some use.
 
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I'm quite interested by the fact this yeast has a tolerance of up to 22C.

I've been using MJ Californian Lager (which, despite the name, is actually an ale yeast AFAIK) in my steam beers but in both cases (although my 2nd one hasn't finished fermenting but it's gone like a rocket again) I've found the attenuation a touch too high.

Would I get away with using this one when I do Common People MkIII? Probably at around the 18-19C range?
 
I'm quite interested by the fact this yeast has a tolerance of up to 22C.

I've been using MJ Californian Lager (which, despite the name, is actually an ale yeast AFAIK) in my steam beers but in both cases (although my 2nd one hasn't finished fermenting but it's gone like a rocket again) I've found the attenuation a touch too high.

Would I get away with using this one when I do Common People MkIII? Probably at around the 18-19C range?

Yes. You can ferment most lager yeasts at ale temps.

I've just ordered some MJ CaliLager yeast to try out. What attenuation were you getting? I might mash higher if you think it's too high
 
What is attenuation in beer?
In brewing, attenuation is the percentage that measures the conversion of sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide by the fermentation process; a more attenuated beer will generally be drier and more alcoholic than a less attenuated beer made from the same wort.

? So is that the abv? Difference between sg and fg?
 

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